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76
Orologi e Co... / Panerai PAM127 1950 "Fiddy", rewiew & analyse.
« il: Settembre 01, 2011, 19:57:30 pm »
PAM127:

 
The 127 is the most mythical PAM of the Richemont years, cheaper than the PAM203, more typified than the PAM232, more bestial than the PAM249, it imposed itself, not without difficulties, as the sexiest PAM in the heart of the «Usual Paneristi».

 


 
The Panerai PAM127 is the watch which will drive the first serious wedge into Bettarini Luminor design from the «Pre-Vendôme» years. An attempt to replicate the Luminor 6152 from the 50’s-60’s, it will revisit the main characteristics of the vintage Luminors.
If the big domed sapphire impressed the whole field at the presentation of this model, it is not this feature of the PAM127 that made history.
It is the return to the ogival middles, akin to those of the Radiomirs, out with the straight middles, to give way to a kind of quaint elegance, a salvation design that lightens the look of this big watch (47mm instead of the usual 44).
Consequently, this move somewhat played by chance (at that time, Panerai didn’t have a definite strategy for the vintage cases), will enable the brand later, in 2009-2010, to free itself from all those who had copied the Bettarini pillow cases with straight built.
Even more than Audemars with its ROO, Panerai imposed the 44mm as the standard size for sports-watches, propelling the average size of Helvetic watches a few millimeters further.
This unexpected success (unexpected by the Officine, because sociologically, the market was expecting big watches), forced Panerai to normalize the 47mm, in order to remain an exclusive niche brand (the overproduction from 2008-2009  having been a semi-failure). This normalization is obvious, as the SIHH2011 presents 8 watches out of 15 in 47mm. Therefore, as if in resonance with Angelo Bonati’s declarations a few years ago, the OP increases its income without sullying itself by over-producing.

 

 
Blue Rover vs blue Ferrari!

 


 


 


 

 
After a difficult start, priced very high, impaired by «soldier photos» that didn’t help it, powered by a Unitas that devalued the watch in the eyes of forum inquisitors, squeezed into a 47mm case, sold for almost 7000€, it was relatively unsellable during the first months.
Its real commercial success, on the second hand market, followed the success curves of the PAM203 and PAM233. The prestige of the PAM203 made the PAM127 more desirable. And the more «mass market» character of the PAM233 constituted the missing link, enabling the generalist watchmaking lovers to understand the passion of the «hardcore Panerai» enthusiast.

 

 
Once everybody had understood at last, the values took off, the watch doubling its catalog price in less than 3 years. Surely, the prices had only reached a x2 ratio, far less than the x5 achieved by the PAM203, but the values of  the PAM127, with 1950 copies produced (plus the possible OOR), were far less artificial that those of a PAM203, with less than 200 copies produced, including the PAM267.
Even worse, its right-handed fraternal-twin, the PAM217, with 1000 copies produced, peaked at the same price levels.
Finally, for a whole edition of around 3000 copies, including the 127, the 217 and the miscellaneous OOR, the astonishing values describe better than any comment, the level of desire stirred by this timepiece.

 


 
In details, it is a rarewatch, too expensive (for my budget…), which is too seldomly seen out of the vaults, an unfortunate but unavoidable consequence of an overvaluation.
Thus, this watches are difficult to photograph, a collector from WatchOnista having been kind enough to lend me his copy. With only one hour and a half to try it, I didn’t have time to set up a «studio shooting».
With a beauty like that on one’s wrist, one plays a pimp like a train ticket collector during a right wing election evening.

 


 

 
I’ve already had the opportunity to wear the 127 of EDI, during the Paneristi.fr function on the houseboat, but the circumstances were unfavorable, with the impossibility to write a worthy piece.

 
The first surprise when wearing it is its weight: without weighing « a ton of bricks », its weight is close enough to that of my ex-PAM285 «Subzilla». Made of stainless steel rather than of titanium, with a double-sapphire almost as dense as titanium but more voluminous, it finally makes sense.

 
The second surprise is its relative discomfort. Related to the wristband? Related to the position of my wrist?
Attitudes worthy of a Chinese contortionist, needed in order to avoid reflections on the pictures.

 
The third is the volume of the beast: if the Radiomir 47mm can be worn on any wrist, thanks to the very specific shapes of the wire-lugs and to a very thin case, it takes a very stocky build to avoid the «Chicken Wrist» syndrome with the PAM127.

 
Finally, the number of photos available sully this watch: having seen it so often , one doesn’t understand it anymore, and the thumb rule that advises people to try a watch before talking about it seriously, is truer than ever.

 


 
A surprising fact when you wear it, as opposed to when you see it in a photo, is the font, perfectly vintage, it brings a lot to the character of the PAM127. Inversely, the RTFM-like«1950» disappears under the sapphire’s reflections. The rest of the dial is forgettable, since like the «1950», the small second hand is almost invisible when the watch is worn. The black dial stands out in sharp contrast with the theme of the timepiece, I would have preferred it in «chocolate».

 
Talking about the sapphire, it is a photographic hell, but its rendering in real life is far different;
The eye adapts itself very well to the reflections, the big golden hands are efficient, and the watch remains ultra-legible. The sapphire’s outline distorts the numbers enormously, making them barely visible (for that matter, they are smaller than on the PAM232). Personally, I love it, it produces a «diving mask» effect, that others find far less attractive, and OP visibly heard them: thus, the next editions of this big sapphire feature far slimmer edges…
Despite the fact that there has been far fancier sapphires since (especially that of my Amvox2), it is nonetheless the detail of finish that made its competitors respect the OP (with a tinge of fear).

 


 
The hands are identical to those of the 232, but seem bigger, since the watch features a smaller aperture.
They are also whiter, reinforcing the contrast with the black dial.

 


 
The watch features a Unitas 6497 set at 21600v/h, which benefits from the old finish with minted plates, that I prefer to «côtes de Genève», although these are more historical. This finish disappeared from the next edition, confirming the PAM127 as a transitional model.

 


 
The case remains the key strength of this watch, large, shapely, slim, it combines savagery(wildness) and elegance, accommodating an ultra-thin Unitas. Contrarily to some other 1950 cases from OP, it preserves harmonious proportions. Although its ogival middles are not symmetrical, contrary to vintage cases, it oxygenates the Luminor series in a cathartic way. If the brushed finish is historically a mistake, it is probably that its designers judged that the market wasn’t ready for a 47mm polished case.
The position of the lugs, too straight, contributes undoubtedly to the discomfort felt when wearing the watch, the next versions of 1950 Luminor will feature more sloping lugs.

 


 
Dry run, painful beginnings, the PAM127 is a prototype in all respects, and like many watches unpopular at the moment of their release, it imposed itself (very quickly, we are in Panerai’s world) as the « must-have » of the Paneristi. Today, even if the risk of sullying the image of the PAM127 by the PAM372 is real (comparative review as soon as I receive my PAM372), it will remain in Paneristic history as a transitional watch, the first of the cruising stage of the Officine, stage confirmed during this SIHH2011.

 


 


 


77
Novità Orologi / Re:Ateliers de Monaco new La Sirene
« il: Luglio 24, 2011, 18:42:25 pm »
Beautiful!!  :)

78
Novità Orologi / Re:[SIHH2011] Panerai, the apogee.
« il: Luglio 20, 2011, 14:41:32 pm »
Thanx so much Pif! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
 
The case of manufacture is very beautiful! Like also other models not manufacture like the 380....the 372 is fantastic...very very beautiful....the only problem of PAM is the caliber for the "hystoric collection", too much expensive for the caliber that has inside.....also for the (about) 7k for the 372....


The new caliber the P.3000 is exclusive for Panerai...
But yep it's expensive. The true question is what is the price of the ultimate pleasure? For watches at the same price level, I don't have so much feeling, that mean finally that Panerai are really good market.

79
Novità Orologi / [SIHH2011] Panerai, the apogee.
« il: Luglio 19, 2011, 01:09:44 am »

On the demand of caiogiuliocesare:






Well, as we're all adults (as much as can being Paneristis) and agreeing, I am going to write the article back to front, the conclusion, then the points of details. So the conclusion comes obiously.
 
It's been 9 months that I am hidden in my cave, in mountains, on the heights of Palexpo.
That I guess, that I suppose, that I watch this SIHH.

 
That made a while since I spread you ears, with my theory about the golden age of Panerai, I feel good that some were septic, even dubidative (I don't dare to say hostile).
Nevertheless the obviousness is there, I have just assisted to the most beautiful Panerai SIHH.

 
I noticed the powering up of Panerai SIHH since 3years, in 2008, it was not evident, but through 311, we felt a will to do better, that it's specified gradually, 2009, 305, 341, even if the 341 is unwearable, it comforted a willingness to stick to vintage standards.
Then last year, with great 339 and 300, this will become obvious, for the finests observers...
You should notice that I had hailed loudly the advent of the P.3000
I knew that were going to send HUGE stuff this year, as far as the SIHH, at the noticable exception of VCA (I missed Lange, I return there later), is rather poor in Roxin' novelties this year
And even in hotels, except brilliant Heritage Watch Manufactory of Frasdorf/Giroud and the new De Déthune DB25T Seconde Morte Tourbillon, there is nothing to eat.
In such a gloomy context, that doubly underlined the festival at Panerai, and finally, it's too, the only defect of this year, it is that it there with too many essentials watches. Even if the choice of the 372 is obvious, there is enough indispensable watchs to surf on it in the next five SIHH.
In only one year, they bring out more absolute watches than during all the previous SIHH.
After starving certain years, it is the Cornucopia.
And I did not devote enough time to certain watches.
I come with friends crossed over the show, Emanuela take the Appointments withtout breaks, as a result, I'll miss my appointement with Julieto see Lange, ouch, collateral victim. : '(
A big thank to Emmanuella to suffer me, I've never been so enthusiastic like 5years old kid, during a presentation.

 
First, the new movement, the P.3000, this caliber is the most interesting, produced byPanerai, since they claim (legitimately), to be a manufacture .
This caliber is assembled by the Panerai watchmakers in manufactory of Val-Fleurier, designed by Eric Lein. With similar characteristics of Unitas, so much its decoration than in is big balance wheel (that remind me the work of Karsten Frasdorf).
Low frequency a 21600a / hour (base 6 thus, as the common denominator of our hourly paradigm), mandatory with a big balance wheel (the energy consumed for start, is multiplied when one goes up in frequency), come back to the classic chronometry standard, small regret, the thickness, 5.3mm, against 4 for the Unitas.
Thickness is du to the double barrel, given for 72h of power reserve, thus 80h real, against 56/60 real for the Unitas.

 
Small note about Wristshots (166 photos in the 1 hour, I am going to ask for the photographic asylum to the Japanese embassy).
I was accompanied by a couple of friends, Sonia and Richard who have a wrist about 16-17cm, against 18-19 for me, he wears a white shirt with cufflinks, and I wear the blue shirt rolled up.
The next time, I come in polos to the shows, that avoids wasting WS;)

 

 

 
 
We begin with the 372, I think that we all waited it for a long time, moreover, it will be necessary to be accustomed to wait, because 372 will not be available before 1 year, and that is going to be the longest year for many Paneristi.
Panerai, since I'm interested in the brand (approximately 5 years), that have been a series of successivebig slaps, the day I took the slaps with the 232, I had to wait (2 years!!)to take another slap with the 127 from EDI a hard day on the barge.
Even if the 339/300 had strongly impressed me lastyear, I had not either fallen down in early childhood.

 
But here is the absolute Panerai, when I passed it, I had tears tear to the eye, as gentlemen, Iwould have dared to wallow in lachrymal effusions deserving of my of my standing, but I'am still excited as a teenage girl at a concert of Tokyo Hotel.
This watch as everything, the case is thick, even the bottom is thicker than the « modern » models, the case is relatively thick,edge on the shape gives it a class that  « hasbeenized » everything that was made in cushion case.
This case, moreover, with his quasi-symmetry, is just perfect, we quickly forget the bezel to be hypnotized by the tubular plexiglass, which determines a deformation of the glass, and a vision of « réhaut » completely different from all previous Panerai.
This plexi deforms as far as possible the « réhaut », and finally this one dissapear, to leave a gaping magnifying glass in the wrist, little regret in the dial, the old luminova is pretty cool, on the contrary, the index are too little compare to the 232, on the other hand nothing to say about the choose of the font, she's fat, fat font for a fat watch (and fat Lady's are better ;) )...
When you put it on the wrist, you take a one-way trip to the 40'-50', impossible to come back on most modern Panerai. With my radiomir 1938, I have feeling to have a Chinese fake of Ebay at the wrist.

 
All these vintages that we admired by far, on the wrists of fortunate Asian or American Paneristis, we've almost got it for a moderate sum, without the radioactivity which stains, without the wear, without the Italian and German (real) fake, in abundance, this absolute vintage-style, which I thought inaccessible (for 50k, I'am going on a De Béthune, not on a fake contaminated by Radium), we could have it in abundance, in our AD at the corner of the street, whitout the stress of the LE, or ultra limited series. The 3000 pieces at 9000Chf/USD seems confirmed.

 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 
Then comes the 382, 305 on bronze case. It's heavy, it stains, it's uber-virile, it's good.At wrist, the feeling, despite total diver (old school) look of the watch It sound like Gladiator watch, more "dude" than that, you die!
It is even more savage than the sensation of the bomba in 2004, and contrary to the bomba, comfort is preserved.
Obviously, considering the Emanuela's speech, they have extensively studied the issue of Panerai case in bronze (with particular experience Gefica), so we can presume that the after-sales service will manage intelligently the problems of maintaining the 382 case, bronze aging differently, depending on the worn and the carrier, each 382 at the end of a fewmonths will be fully personalized , for reminding, the bronze as you wear it, stay polish/ turns black or turquoise, as bronzes from your grandparents.
The other part very worthwhile, it's the green dial, a bit trash besides, which that make sens in a Panerai dial.
A little darker than photo, it is more appropriate to the case of 305, finally, between the bronze and this beautiful green dial, I have not felt the emptiness of the 305 dial, in short, is the best went out until now, and the other essential watch of this SIHH 2011.

 

 


 


 


 
The 375, the almost perfect replica of the 127, the case is a bit thicker (the P.3000 is 1.3mm thicker), and the watch loses a bit of its charm, the other point wich I regret is that the watch is quasimonochromic between the dial and case.
But in fact, the main sin of this beautiful watch, is to arrive the same year than the 372.
Since John Rambo with the 1950 47mm case in ceramic, this 1950 black case is a big dream of the community. And this phantasm is plenty accomplished, amazing composite coating + fantastic case of the 127 + aged index + domed saphir, it's a perfect strike.
But most of us have to make a choice between this 3 marvelous firsts watchs.

 


 


 


 
The 373, Radiomir 47mm, platinium case, 2533 dial. Another big phantasm who's come this year.
373 is as we had hoping. The « réhaut » seems very différent of the 232, the magnifying effect, the fat font and the aged index, do the remaining job...
For the total vintageness is very beautiful, very pure, very very expensive, if the case in platinum fit well on the wrist , it feel badly on the wallet, it's a pity, but it will be difficult to blame Panerai about their choice of metals, considering the  qualitative and quantitative Scalability of 2011's novelties.
Small aesthetic regret, while the watch claims to be totally vintage, in particular through his thick caseback, and his tubular plexiglass, has a case side too thick, isn't in conformity with real vintage, it's a pity.

 

 


 


 


 
The 376, Radiomir 47mm, Cali dial, all previous thougth are still available, the dial Cali is less original, but considering the quality of the product, the quote of the a 249 from second hand, the question of buying a precious metal is legitimate. Moreover, she's not too weighty, and water resistant a 100 meters.

 


 


 


 
At last the 379, the same, in pink gold/Panerai dial, she's magic, my LA pimp atavism speak, but I love it, it's big, it's weighty, in full gold.
The one that has less meaning in a collection, but the funniest of the 3 on the wrist.

 


 


 


 
Panerai had already done us the blow of the trio of Radiomir in 3 precious metals,but never realized so beautiful way both the choice of dial perfectly mastered, as the general finish, ,indicates as the design ( Of Alessandro Ficarelli?) of the watchs has matured into the Neuchatel's house.
Hey, you've noticed, no PAM374! ;)

 


 


 


 


 
The 368, another LE, a left-handed, I must admit I felt nothing for the left-handed, but I presume that for fans it's a must-have, once again the characteristics are enough to tempt you,47mm, titanium, P.2002, domed sapphire, perfect finish, the thickness is relativelycontained in addition.

 


 


 


 

The 371 Regatta, the most beautiful Regatta to be ever released, like this SIHH2011 a GMT P.9000, a beautiful blue dial, who fits happier this LE than usual blackdial of the 305 (that becames older between the 371 and 382).
Blue is substantially the same as the 087 Bomba v2, note the clearer first quarter of small second, a very beautiful versatile watch, a must-have for collectors of Regatta.

 


 


 
The 345, last LE. Knowing that Panerai is a niche brand, we are here on a microniche, say Chihuahua's niche, so much the rares features overlap in this model.
Left-handed, chrono titanium PR not linear, but on the back, a novelty for a P.200X(2004.9, in this case), his biggest problem, a flat sapphire, almost cheap for this relatively expensive watch ...

 


 


 


 
The 380, as the caliber (of firearm not of JlC), a range entry terribly effective, that will be the equivalent of Logo 000 for the radiomirs, to less than 3000€, Unitas, 45mm, the logo on the dial paintedi n light depression, small regret, the BlackSeal line seems to much for me.
The caseback is full steel, it is very fitting with theoriginal tool-watch spirit. Efficiency.

 


 
The 384, Radiomir 45mm ceramic P.2002, unsurprisingly, I don't like it, ceramic case doesn't fit to the rads, super thick caliber making it excessively obese, it's doubtless the watch that I like less of this SIHH.
But Richard, adored it, all taste are in nature...

 


 


 
386, the watch of the buzz pré--Sihh, I have difficultys to finding it qualities " buzzables ", seen the parade of fighter worthy of the airshow of the bourget/eurosatory.
It is very honest Panerai, a composite 312 P. 9000, it willn't prevent me from sleeping, but will doubtless make the enjoyment of the Asiatic market, which is not still provided with my advantageous physical appearance.
 


 


 


 
The 369, Radiomir 42mm Chronograph (for Asian market), a watch as could have made of it Panerai there 5years, it's thick, not amazing level of finish, and overall without interrests, curiosity,an embarked OPXXIII, one 2892 with complication plate I believe…

 


 


 
The 356, Luminor Bettarini case 44mm, Daylight,very beautiful homage to the Daylight range, a quite poor film will have succeeds in giving some rellay interesting watches (like poor Judgment Night give is huge OST).
We could see either the swansong of the Bettarini case there, or a subliminal message addressed to the amateurs of Bettarini case, standard, « we don't forget you ». It is in any way the not 47mm which I the most appreciated of this 2011 SIHH.

 


 


 
Epilog: Panerai score with one of the fourth most interesting brand of the wonder week, a longside De Bethune Van Cleef& Arpels and Heritage Watch Manufactory, while almost all the other brands make a half-interest SIHH, Panerai realizes his best performance by opening the floodgates for all unfulfilled desires of Paneristis.
Better, they outdistance seriously, by increasingthe level of general finish and esthetic choices, all those which claimed to make Panerai-like (B&R at the head).
It is also a snub with all the embittered who spent their days to wallow in cheap and little attack with towards Bonati, even if it is of course the work of a team personified in the mustached man.
Finally, the biggest critic is that I don't see Panerai realize again a such beautiful SIHH in the future,
unless they exit the Little Egyziano, the big one in 47mm, the 339 with straight lugs (as the discussed Ferretti), and the 47mm submariner-like, same year, this exploit would be impossible to replicate...
At last, we should not cry, we are the lucky generation of Paneristi which lives directly the apogee of Panerai.

 

80
In the context of the partnership between www.watchonista.com and Only Watch, the charity auction designed to collect funds to fight Myopathy, we will discover the finest «Only watches 2011» through a series of reports.

 


 
Blancpain proposes its Villeret Extra-flat « Grande decoration» presented during BaselWorld 2011. Each of the 5 unique pieces already discovered are decorated after different themes depending on the versions, with France, Switzerland, China, Japan and Hong Kong respectively.
Akin to the De Bethune (whose «DB25 Ciel Etoile» is dedicated to the conquest of «The Rock» by the Grimaldis), the Villeret Extra-Plate features the Prince’s Palace.
Besides the Monegasque theme, the decoration is unique, as it was manually engraved by Marie-Laure Tarbouriech, «Meilleure ouvriere de France» (best craftsman of France).
The final result is best seen in full light, as it is in its movement where the subtlety of its details are revealed; The brass wheels bring colors to the piece, thanks to the relatively open bridges (compared to the 15B movement presented at Only Watch 2007).

 


 
The 15B caliber is seldom used by Blancpain. It was presented in 2007 at the «Only Watch 2007», in a completely different version, that being its skeleton dragon theme design. Moreover, it was fitted into a pocket watch case.
This caliber deserves our full attention on various levels with its interesting features: it is extra-flat, 1.9mm, and extra-wide, 16 lines (36mm), very trendy.
In contrast to its competing movements from the 50’-60’s, that are extra-flat but also extra-small, with diameters of around 10 lines.
Highly jeweled for such a simple caliber, with 20 rubies, low frequency, the 15B is technically similar to the pocket watch mechanisms.
I regret that such an up-to-date movement is not to be found in the Blancpain classic line, however it will be even more exclusive for the lucky owner.

 


 


 
The domed «grand feu» enameled dial is another reminder of the vintage pocket watches.
Because of poor lighting at Blancpain offices, the domed shape is difficult to see on the photos. Anyway, my attention was focused on the indicators.
In fact, the Roman numerals are hollowed, and if this kind of effect is relatively easy to do on most surfaces, it is very difficult to achieve with lacquer on an enameled dial…
You will have noticed that most of the enameled dials are painted with filled in numerals, which is already tricky to execute.
The indicators match the red gold hands, that are shaped like hollowed sage leaves.
The legibility is preserved thanks to the big hands and indicators as well as the immaculate white dial that is so open that it reminds me of a stadium spotlight.
It is really the kind of enameled dial I wish I saw more often, with subtle details but of extremely high-quality and a generous surface that makes room for the materials to be showcased.
With this watch, I realize that the enamel is better suited to large surfaces, akin to the pocket watches, and that smaller diameters do not let the light shine at the center of the dial.

 


 
The red gold case, unsurprisingly, is designed after the codes of the Villeret line. The «staircase» bezel is significantly attenuated, even better for its nay-sayers.
The real added value of this case is its height, 8.3mm, which creates a very smooth transition between faces and middles and gives the watch a terrific charm from its side view.
Together with the Richard Milles RM033, it is one of the rare watches on the market to feature an extra-flat architecture in a big format.
The «Paneristis», for example, will finally have a classic watch that respects the XL codes of the 2010 decade.

 


 
During «Only Watch», certain brands propose models or even calibers that are totally or nearly ground-breaking.
Blancpain, by proposing an extremely rare watch with really personalized finishings, truly plays the game of the «Only Watch» charity auction .

 


 

81
Novità Orologi / [Noveltie] Manufacture Royale Androgyne
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 23:19:28 pm »
During numerous meetings organized at the Ferney-Voltaire castle or elsewhere, some watch lovers, collectors and journalists have been able to discover more than a watch, a concept.

 


 
At a time when everybody reformats their lines by producing very moderate 40mm, with opaline dials for the Chinese market, the Manufacture Royale stands out with codes belonging to a superlative independent watchmaking, worthy of euphoric years we thought were gone by.
A puzzling product when one hasn’t held it in one’s own hands, with its baroque, radical or even Steampunk aesthetics, the Opera arrives in a context of economic trouble and crisis of meaning. Unfortunately, it has been judged by skimpy standards.

 


 
Charly Grosbety, a sculptor, jeweler, biker, is in the manner of  some Loiseau, Wiederetch or some Prescher, one of the behind the scene enchanters who have been bewitching watchlovers for decades.
A character out of the norms, who takes after Captain Haddock rather than after Professor Calculus, a mountain man who had stopped working for the watch industry, before Arnaud Faivre went and got him for a final job. In fact, it is a masterstroke whose ramifications remain to be counted.

 


 
If Charly Grosbety is the artist, Arnaud Faivre is the designer for Manufacture Royale. Seldom known from the public, he is the CEO of «Tec Ebauches», a young company, a watchmaking Startup minus IT plus CNC.
In a few short years, «Tec Ebauches» imposed itself as one of the chief providers of ébauches in French-speaking Switzerland, in terms of quality as well as quantity.
These «know how» and «knowhow to finish» exist at all levels in the Manufacture Royale project. The hand finishing from «Tec Ebauches», usually devolved to the most prestigious names in the Helvetic watchmaking, brings an incredible boost in quality to the products of Manufacture Royale.

 


 
If the concept is offbeat regarding the style of its creators, it is also out of place thanks to a surprising and refreshing storytelling.
Instead of raising an obscure manufactory from the Jura, wrecked decades ago during the quartz storm, Arnaud Faivre chose to draw his inspiration from Voltaire’s journey.
The leading philosopher of the «Enlightenment», spearhead of the European intellectual modernism, Voltaire the liberal, the libertarian and the libertine. The spirit who originated the modern vision of freedom of expression, essential for the democratic debate and progress in all domains.
Because Voltaire was not only a courtier and a philosopher, but also a businessman, whose enormous income enabled him to address the problems stemming from the acidity of his writings.
A this period, watchmaking was already a profitable trade… After having successively fallen out of favor from several kings, pursued by packs of courtiers, intellectually conflicted with Rousseau(after our post-modern standards, Rousseau would be from the left wing, whereas Voltaire would be from the right), the writer finds refuge in Geneva in 1755.
Approaching his sixties, Voltaire is regarded as dead (60 years old, a venerable age by the standards of this period); He’s nonetheless animated by a second wind, and settles near the border of the independent city of Geneva, in the French no man’s land of Gex country, at Ferney, which will eventually become Ferney-Voltaire.
After drying out marshlands, killing mosquitoes, multiplying the population by a factor 20, creating a mini-courtship and consecrating his abode as one of the most upper-crust places in Europe, Voltaire creates flourishing industries, silk stockings and watchmaking, under the name of «Manufacture Royale».


 
I went to Vallorbe, headquarters of the Manufacture Royale, to discover the «Androgyne», the watch that succeeds the «Opera».
NB: the pictured watch is a prototype, the final version will feature slightly shorter lugs, a more finely worked rehaut, and will be finalized: no micro specks of dust anymore, metal of the case in a different color, etc.

 


 
If the Opera was an excessive and conceptual watch , the « Androgyne » is a timepiece of reason.
The Opera ambitioned to be the loudest  «wristwatch minute repeater» in the world.
To achieve this result, heavy modifications have been made on a caliber from «La Fabrique du Temps».
More particularly, an unfurling sound box has been added to increase the volume.
Obviously, a relatively bulky caliber associated with an unfurling box produced an iconoclast 50mm watch.
The «Androgyne » keeps the design of the Opera in a more standard dimension (43mm) and smoothed aesthetics.
The classic Tourbillon set at 21600v/h is still on board, but out with the minute repetition and the playful unfolding case, replaced by a case with an almost classic architecture.
The «Androgyne », with its more reasonable design, is intended for  female and male customers indifferently, which Voltaire, great seducer, wouldn’t have disavowed!
Especially when one knows that he personally produced several women watches… Thus, with this piece we stay with the codes of MR from the Voltarian period.

 
To compare, the Opera at my wrist:

 


 
More reasonable, but not too much, we are far from a watch intended for emerging markets.
Although it is more sober than that of the Opera, the design of the «Androgyne » is far from stale, the «Baroquo-Steampunk» look is still present and the dial loses in complexity what it gains in fluidity and volumes.
Several design tips were made to lighten the dial, giving it its own dynamism, especially with near-symmetric Tourbillon and barrel framework bridges (60 hours of power reserve), as well as with layered bridges.
Strong contrasts between material and finishings (enhanced by the central sanding) further reinforce the sharp aesthetic choices.
The bridges as well as the hands (like those of the Opera) are chiseled in a broadsword shape.
It is of course reminiscent of a sword and shield, a wink from the Manufacture Royale to its nobility of the sword.
Nobility of the sword whose mythological pinnacle are the Arthurian legends…

 


 
There is still a tremendous amount to say about this piece, its design, its complications, its storytelling and most of all, about its price!
It will be available starting at 39.000 CHF excl.tax in the stainless steel version and 69.000 CHF excl.tax in the gold version.
To be compared with the entry level of the Helvetic tourbillons: the Master Tourbillon Jeager leCoultre and the Zenith El Primero Tourbillon are available for about 40.000 CHF excl.tax in stainless steel versions, and yet are far more classic pieces …
In terms of execution and look, the «Androgyne »  is a product comparable to a «Corum Tbridge Tourbillon »  , priced at 55k (in titanium), an already competitive price for such an odd product.
A really fair-play tag , a discovery price.

 


 
Manufacture Royale reasserts its will to durably establish itself on the watchmaking market.
MR benefits not only from a structure and an a range of know-hows almost unequaled, even by large manufacturers, but also benefits from a strong and original concept, with many ongoing projects.
MR is able to carry concepts like the « Androgyne », a watch that confirms the soundness of the project.

 

 

 

 


82
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] BlackSand Uniformity
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 16:23:58 pm »
Non ditemi che mi tocca fare un corso di inglese x leggere i post sennò veramente è la fine...
L'unico sistema per imparare le lingue intelligente è quello di un mio amico: andare in czech republik o limitrofi cosi ti tocca parlare in inglese...  ;D ;D ;D 
Comunque I don't like it... Ammazza che bravo  ;) ;D ;D ;D


Use GOOGLE CHROME, automatic traduzionne...

83
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 16:19:36 pm »
Pif, can i ask you one thing? are you a watchmaker? reseller? a press man? or a simple lover of wristwatch?


Obviously, is my pics, and my hairy and fat wrist.
Basically, I'am a simple french forum rat. After many adventure, I'am succesively, moderator, administrator, bloger, of many spaces for few years... 


Few month ago, I was engaged as Community Manager for www.watchonista.com
(my photo's albums here: http://www.watchonista.com/1619/malik-bahri/watchographer)


So, our politics, is to share the content, to share the link, our final purpose, is not to be a pure and closed community, but more a watches portal, like a kind a facebook dedicated to the watches.


In the communotary objective, the team of orologico can share links and content on watchonista, in the media tab, or the forum, etc...




For the question about my posts on Orologi I Passioni, I'an basically a Paneristo, I follow OiP since a long time ago, and an user from orologico, has invited me by PM to share my content here.
I love sharing, so I create an account here, and share with you.


And I'am sorry about my Italian, My 2 boss are Italians, and  they speak perfectly this beautiful language, but I'am French, I'am only write French & English.

Great Pif! Thank you for you explanation! ;)   So you are a PAM lover!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D  What models you have? The idea of your forum about the exchange of link is great!!! Web is fantastic for this.....welcome to Italy...and again...wellcome to us! ;)


I had a PAM285, but I sell it.
I have since 3 years a PAM232 "1938".
 I have a 382 and 372 in command since the last SIHH, I will share with you my report on this last SIHH.


(I have an Amvox2 also)

84
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 16:17:43 pm »


I love Italia, the food is great, the girls are sweets, and you have a level of public liberty that we've forget in France...


Of course, thanks for your welcoming.

Hi Pifpaf,

if you love italian food why don't you join us on our next " Orologico Day " in Milano in October 2011?? ( clic on it for info ) Once or twice a year we (almost) all meet for a lunch.... You could be our outsider! :D

Cicci
 ;)

ps: an opportunity to become more and more international!!  8)



With great pleasure, I will try to negociate with my boss (he had some difficulty to thinking to go Milan, to assist to a dinner withOrologico forum members, is working also...). 

85
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 16:15:56 pm »
MITICOOOOOOOOOOO....

finalmente un francese che dice che "you have a level of public liberty that we've forget in France"

You are Great!

 :)


That's a fact, both.


(and honnestly, in France we laught about Berlu, but Sarkozy is worst than Berlu..)

86
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 17, 2011, 16:14:44 pm »
It's important for us speake with persons out of italy....so we can develop the forum! 8)


For the specific devellopement of your forum, you can share&promote, by links&contents, on www.watchonista.com by registering in the media section of the website.
As that you will improve your SEO and your visibility on the web.

87
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 07, 2011, 18:50:40 pm »
nice presentation

you are very welcome although you are french....no one is perfect
i am joking...
we are very happy to have you here and to share with you your pictures...


I love Italia, the food is great, the girls are sweets, and you have a level of public liberty that we've forget in France...


Of course, thanks for your welcoming.

88
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 07, 2011, 17:43:59 pm »
Pif, can i ask you one thing? are you a watchmaker? reseller? a press man? or a simple lover of wristwatch?


Obviously, is my pics, and my hairy and fat wrist.
Basically, I'am a simple french forum rat. After many adventure, I'am succesively, moderator, administrator, bloger, of many spaces for few years... 


Few month ago, I was engaged as Community Manager for www.watchonista.com
(my photo's albums here: http://www.watchonista.com/1619/malik-bahri/watchographer)


So, our politics, is to share the content, to share the link, our final purpose, is not to be a pure and closed community, but more a watches portal, like a kind a facebook dedicated to the watches.


In the communotary objective, the team of orologico can share links and content on watchonista, in the media tab, or the forum, etc...




For the question about my posts on Orologi I Passioni, I'an basically a Paneristo, I follow OiP since a long time ago, and an user from orologico, has invited me by PM to share my content here.
I love sharing, so I create an account here, and share with you.


And I'am sorry about my Italian, My 2 boss are Italians, and  they speak perfectly this beautiful language, but I'am French, I'am only write French & English.

89
Novità Orologi / [BaselWorld] Sinn is not sinful
« il: Luglio 05, 2011, 12:04:40 pm »
BaselWorld, the SIHH, the diverse horologic events, it’s a luxury fair, a debauchery of logistics, the superlative as a norm, the profit margins are as ample as the physical attributes of the hostesses, we are far from the industrial rigidity of areas such as information technology or mass market automotive.
However, a brand does its utmost to slash prices, to set the cat among the pigeons of the Helvetian horology, to practice Teutonic hard discount in the middle of the Swiss deli.
This brand is Sinn. Usually, the price matches the quality level.
At Sinn’s, the dream is directly affordable, the purchase can be compulsive without risking divorce


This year, for its 50th birthday, Sinn treated us with a few very attractive novelties.
One of the 5 watches that most impressed me during this event (CF Basel Atomic) is undoubtedly the Sinn EZM-7. Unlike its competitors, this model is priced far below the usual 150k€, which is a great asset for the immediate satisfaction of an imperious watch-craving.

 


 
This watch presents a far too rare particularity: its overall theme as well as the lettering of its dial were not inspired by any «repression service» such as army or police.
The design was inspired by an extremely popular group: the Firefighters!!
In the same line as the EZM-4(withouth the 5100 Lemania though), the EZM-7 was definitely created for professional use.
Designed for firefighters, and by extension for all who step in during catastrophic events , the central part of the dial and the crown are meant to display mission critical information, such as maximum intervention times, with indicators adapted to the type of protection employed (oxygen mask and canister, airtight jumpsuit, etc.) and the harmfulness of the environment , such as fire, bio-hazard, radioactivity, etc.
The counter is very easy to set, it only takes a rotation of the crown until the chosen mark faces the minute hand, as on a scuba-diver’s watch.

 


 
The case is made of the famous «tegimented» steel from Sinn (diffusion of carbon into the surface of the steel + bead blasting or acid etching frosted finish). This material achieves an impressive 1200 Vickers in hardness, to be compared to the 200Hv usually encountered in horology: I’ve doggedly tested the case with my Leatherman knife, achieving no scratches, nothing…

 


 
Wrist-band and case present a perfect finish, a beautiful work indeed, even if a little heavy; Extremely comfortable to wear, the back is Nickel-free, great news for people allergic to this metal ( they must avoid the stainless steel wristband version though)

 


 

 
The dial and crown bring lots of charm to this watch, the intense coloring somewhat softening the austerity of the product, a successful mix between  Jamaica and Germany.
By the way, speaking of Jamaica, the watch is fitted with a 28-93 GMT 24hours displayed with a hollowed hand.
A regret concerning the mechanism: I wish it had carried one more complication linked to the countdown purpose of the watch or to another function related to Firefighting
The other regret relates to the Luminova finish of the indicators, which could have been better.
On the other hand, the utilization of a simple mechanism helped to maintain the price tag at around 2000€.

 


 
In other respects, the stylistic mix displayed on this watch brings to mind the aesthetics that made the Rolex GMT a success, with a more updated size and finishing. It is logical, since both these watches were designed by professional specifications.
In the end, it is a great achievement, that oversteps the austere touch of Sinn, and for me, it was a «love at first sight» case, I might as well treat myself to one…

 

 
As the brand celebrates its 50th birthday, their classic 358 is revamped with a gray iridescent dial, color that was usually reserved for the premium watches made of Platinum or grey Gold. This finish is becoming more and more accessible, much to our delight.
Taking a picture of this watch was a nightmare because of its shimering dial, the owners should rejoice with such a shiny item on their wrist…

 


 
With a diameter of 40mm and a considerable thickness induced by the modified 7750 mechanism, the watch has less harmonious proportions than the EZM-7 (it gains in thickness what it loses in diameter).
However, it is waterproof up to 100m ( like the next models) and resists to low pressures aka high altitudes, which makes sense, since the watch was designed for pilots.

 


 


 
This timekeeper will make fans of this brand happy, especially those who wanted to buy a 358 and will be able to get a luxurious special anniversary one.

 

 
Sinn also produced a declination of the 6100 Regulator with the version 6110, with a classic 2 hand display: when Sinn starts making Stowa, it is better than Stowa…
Chunky watches halfway between a StowaMarine and a Portuguese IWC.
Above all, it is probably one of the finest «thin rehaut» watches on the market (Navitimer, Portugaise, Arnold,etc.),and at any rate it is the one with the best price/quality ratio.

 


 


 


 


 


 
Even if the Unitas finishing is unsatisfactory (I am not even sure it is the best quality ETA can achieve), let’s keep in mind we are in the realm of horologic «hard discount».
The «guillochage» of  the dial is surprizingly well crafted, and compensates for the poor quality of the Unitas and of the indicators, relief printed, disturbingly so...
The best choice is probably the stainless steel model, more coherent with the «hard discount».

 

 
Finally, a funny model, GDR inspired, the Sinn 902, which looks like the result of a partnership between Trabant and Sinn, and nonetheless would be a refreshing alternative to the usual alliances with automakers such as Ferrari or Aston-Martin…

 


 


 
With 34x10mm, it’s a small cube with a refreshing «totaly 70’s» look, , definitelly GDR, with the geometric case, the thick indicators and the orange slide; One downside though: the price, which at around 1500€ seems a little high compared to the rest of the models which are more in line in terms of prices. But one doesn’t count when having fun.

 
Sinn achieved an excellent show, with a complete and original range of  products, that covers many styles with a few models, all without altering the brand’s image.
This product oriented strategy, aimed at a greatprice/quality ratio, should inspire other Swiss watchmakers.
This presentation leaves me with a crazy desire to hit the road towards Frankfort to purchase my magnificent EZM-7.

 

90
Novità Orologi / Re:[BaselWorld] BlackSand Uniformity
« il: Luglio 04, 2011, 15:54:19 pm »
i would like have a closer look to them...
I much prefer classic watches, but quality seems to be very high here.

At least it is something different from the usual massive scuba watch coming from unknown companies aiming at fast profits


you have take out the words from my mouth  ;) ;D


Matteo


 ;)

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