Orologico Forum 3.0

Visualizza post

Questa sezione ti permette di visualizzare tutti i post inviati da questo utente. N.B: puoi vedere solo i post relativi alle aree dove hai l'accesso.


Post - Pifpaf

Pagine: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7
16
In our contemporary world, music is everywhere, every time, brightens up and glorifies our everyday life. From the startups of the Silicon Valley up to the workshops of horology of our valleys, it is not uncommon to cross employees with earphones, which is a tolerated attitude because it seems that music increases productivity! Personally, when I am bustling about late at work, I listen to a hard piece so that I regain energy and inspiration.

Music, just like the Internet or modern medicine, is one of the greatest progresses of our civilization. Our ancestors did not know our happiness, music in the 19th century was so rare, and without our contemporary recording capacity they were dependent upon folk singers, only able to play intoxicating sonorities…

A singing bird is a complex machine where the constraints are quite different from those of a watch. In a watchmaking movement, we seek above all consistency so that an accurate count of the time can be provided whereas in a singing bird mechanism, it is more a matter of generating an important force to animate the bird and to produce the necessary air to produce an audible whistling.



With the techniques of the 19th century, it was easier to obtain force (through heavier springs) than consistency (the quality of the springs, of the barrel, of the balance-springs has penalized chronometry for a long time). It was thus easier and more spectacular to produce a singing bird than a chronometer.

Since then, watchmaking craft has highly evolved, the progresses of metallurgy (elinvar…) and the new precision machines (milionometer…) have made it possible to rise to the double challenge of consistency and miniaturization.
Outshined by the appearance of gramophones at the start of the 20th Century, these singing birds have only marginally beneficiated from these technical progresses.

Jacquet Droz, which was one of the most prestigious mechanics Art house (automata, prostheses, singing birds and horology) wished to dust off the concept of the singing automaton while making it beneficiate from the last technological innovations and thus realizes a tour-de-force by presenting the first watch in history to embark a singing bird: the Charming Bird.



To attain this original musical complication, the Jaquet Droz watchmakers had to go from square one to palliate the relative lack of data about the singing birds automata and answer the miniaturization problematic imposed by the bulk of a wrist watch.

In a traditional singing bird automaton, we wind a lever that winds a complication barrel (like in a traditional minute-repetition) which will provide energy to two distinct parts: the animation of the automaton and the sound of the whistle.

A lamb leather bellows animated by the spring of the barrel provides air to the sound of the whistle. Therefore it is the spring that pumps air in the whistle, the sound is modulated (generally) by a kind of cylinder lined with sprockets; this will produce a melody. As for the bird, it is animated in various positions by a complex automaton system.



Often, in the mechanical field, the constraints are not proportional but exponential and if the mechanical parts are relatively easy to miniaturise today, it is not the case with the lamb leather part. Another obstacle that needs to be considered to the excessive miniaturization of the traditional system is that the product will be too weak to be audible for a human adult.

To rise to this challenge, the Jaquet Droz watchmakers are inspired by a piston of an internal combustion engine to obtain the same sonorous result as the traditional whistle. The compression ratio of this piston is very close to that of a sporty engine (approximately 1:10). Every organ: pump, air reservoirs and whistle are produced in sapphire in order to limit the frictions to the most.



When the push-piece button, which is dedicated to the singing bird, is activated, the cam at 5h moves the piston, which crosses the watch from 3h to 9h. The pump fills the air reservoir, which supplies the melody to the whistle. The complication barrel feeds the automaton bird as much as the whistle: the mechanical ballet impresses while the ballet of the bird dancing to the rhythm of the whistling bewitches.

The bird, rather impressive, is arranged in a dome, which outsteps the surface of the sapphire glass. Such a procedure, destined to reduce the thickness of the case (thus from 22.80mm to 15.65mm), has already been seen in the case of escapement complications but never for a whistling automaton.

To facilitate the sound diffusion, the case has been pierced on the side. This opening was indispensable because contrary to a minute-repetition, there is no resonance phenomenon in the absence of a hammer indirectly hitting the structure of the watch.
The opening is equipped with a musical instrument membrane to prevent dust and light from entering the case. Careful about sudden dives in a pool, the not water-resistant case renders the watch’s mechanism vulnerable to water projections!



Aside from this specificity, the case is relatively classical, manufactured in white gold, it measures 47mm in diameter. The same concave form is found on the Bird Repeater (link), but where the Bird Repeater was ultra-coloured and more than vintage, the Charming Bird is very sober with its ruthenium finish, which gives the bridges an ultra-contemporary blackened look. Even the finish of the clock dial (at 12h) is very up-to-date.
The numbers seem to levitate upon the dial but contrarily to what could have been seen at Hautlence some years ago, they are not glued on the inside of the glass sapphire. The silver dial is covered with a sapphire plate; the indexes are directly integrated to the latter through a galvanic growth. A novelty? If the bird remains painted to the colours of the **** bird so dear to Jaquet Droz, their lacquered finish is stylistically at the limit of art deco, a mini revolution if we consider that in the great tradition the singing birds are covered with real birds’ feathers.

Between the dome borrowed from the world of independent watchmaking, the blackened finish of the bridges, the indices in levitation and the streamlined **** bird, this watch is a radical aesthetic turn for Jaquet Droz. There had already been somewhat offbeat watches, in particular with ceramic cases, but no product was as futuristic.



Subjectively, the Charming Bird is a beautiful watch. Objectively, if you think of the success of the Lange’s Zeitwerk Luminous (a contemporary watch in a classic range) the latest high-complication coming from the Jaquet Droz workshops is most likely destined to great success.
 
But Jaquet Droz, which celebrates the 275 years of its establishment this year, goes further by signing a completely unique complication, a major watch in the history of musical complications. Its only problem is its price: approximately 400k CHF. Both the going rate and the number of copies (28) reserve it to an elite of collectors. With a similar tariff and number of copies the Bird Repeater is already sold out.

To less fortunate watch passionate, Jaquet Droz proposes other pieces:

Perpetual Calendar Eclipse:

Basic mechanical horology, it is quite outdated, any smartphone gives a more accurate time than the most precise of the mechanical watches.

But we can go further in the hunt for chimeras with a Perpetual Calendar (quantième perpetuel in French = QP). This indeed requires winding and constant settings (summer / winter time) to be truly perpetual.
The QP, this is one of the dandiest exercises of the mechanical watch, every prestigious horology house has to have its QP.

Today, Jaquet Droz presents a new vision of the QP, teeming with poetry and theatricality: the Perpetual Calendar Eclipse. The watch is slightly concave in red gold, it is 43 by 13.2mm in height, the proportions are almost perfect; it is worth mentioning that with its large dial opening and ivory grand feu enamel dial it seems a little large on the wrist.



There is a black version (made in Onyx), which seems a little more compact, possibly to be preferred for smaller wrists.
The watch is powered by an automatic modular calibre with double barrel providing 68h of power reserve for a frequency of 28 800 a/h ... The module, seen in the Swatch Group, is here slightly modified to provide this exclusive arrangement to this QP Eclipse.

The layout of the dial is very original but very readable: the exercise with so many indications is not so easy in a PC. It is on the left half of the dial that the day of the week is indicated; on the right side, the indication of the date, the month at 12h. Only flaw, the aperture of the leap year, all the indications are made by hands and it is somewhat a shame to disturb the harmony with an indication by aperture. We could have found the leap year on the back for example.



The climax of this piece is indeed on the moon phase at 6 o'clock. As on the original eclipse, the moon levels the dial and a pivoting disc will hide it according to the phases of the lunar orb. The assembly formed by the disk arm and the moon is inevitably reminiscent of a Venetian mask mounted on arms ... With the ballet of retrograde indications and the stars, the universe of classical theater is suggested in a very elegant way.

If we put aside the incongruous leap year aperture, it is one of the finest Perpetual Calendar in the market: readability, size, layout, everything is perfect. The great strength of this watch is that all the space is filled with the intelligence of a French garden, the minute hands run until the flange and despite the large size of the needles, the indications overlap very little, which allows to save one or two millimeters in box height.
The prices, high, are not delusional for this type of complication with this level of finish: 56'200 CHF.



Grande Heure GMT :

If we claim to be a purist, how can we not mention the mono-hands? At the beginning of the pocket watchmaking, in the XVIIIth century, was the mono hand.

Indeed, at that time the mono hand had several advantages. First of all the alloys of balance springs at that time were not very consistent. This conditioned the levels of accuracy of about a quarter of an hour. The large cases, allowed in addition to have a precise enough railway. Finally, a mono hand barrel avoided friction, which was not superfluous given that the levels of tolerance were quite high at that time…

Today, the mono hands are one of the most serious tributes to the beginning of portable watchmaking. Jaquet Droz already made a watch of this type. But today, the idea is to produce a double mono hand indicating two timezones !

The Crande Heure GMT is a watch of 43mm for 11mm, animated, as the QP Eclipse, by a Jaquet Droz calibre based on the Piguet 1150. The 1150 is a double barrel calibre of 11” ½ lines for 100 hours of power reserve for 21600 v/h.

At Jaquet Droz the frequency is pushed to 28800 v/h and the power reserve accordingly reduced to 68 hours.
The particularity of its complication is to benefit from a large double time without minutes. Which makes it one of the most precise GMT on the market in the absence of friction of the minute hand.

The two hands of hours form a compass, which is obviously a nod to vintage maritime navigation. This exercise is obviously more a tribute than a re-edition of a piece, which existed, but the atmosphere is here. We believe, we have fun with this watch!
To take the exercise even further Jaquet Droz could enlarge the size of the case to enlarge the railway and facilitate the reading of the hour, to the nearest minute.
The watch will be charged CHF 27,150 for the gold version.


17
Among the few novelties seen before the SIHH, Roger Dubuis strikes hard: he presents an exceptional complication which revolutionizes the solution brought by the tourbillon!
A device never seen in this architecture and never miniaturized to a level allowing its integration into a wristwatch!
(Some vintage marine chronometers featured a quadruple escapement device)

To be able to grasp the value of the Excalibur Quatuor, one has to understand the problem which the tourbillon was designed to address.



As everybody knows, Abraham-Louis Breguet developed the tourbillon to compensate the effects of gravity on pocket watches when they were worn perpendicularly to the ground…
In a classic movement, the escapement is fixed; but with a tourbillon, it usually completes a revolution around the balance axis in 60 seconds, the most common speed; thus, the effects of earth’s gravitational forces are compensated for the most part.
The tourbillon accompanied the mechanical watchmaking rebirth in the 80’s, only utilized in prestigious complications because of a difficult tuning process and of the great technical skills demonstration it represented; however, a tourbillon was quite useless in a wristwatch’s movement, as the wrist very often sits in intermediate positions, neither vertical nor horizontal…
As mentioned in a recent topic, the tri-dimensional tourbillon is one of the solutions that address this issue…

But this solution, however technically brilliant and aesthetically fascinating, is nonetheless a mere evolution of a technology invented in 1801 and which was not designed for wristwatches.



To go beyond the tourbillon, today Roger Dubuis starts from a blank slate to address the problem of the effects of gravitational forces on a wristwatch’s escapement.
The idea appeared a few years ago: tilting the hairspring- balance looked like a more appropriate solution than the tourbillon (and cheaper from a massive industrialization standpoint). The goal was to maintain the regulating organ parallel to the ground under most circumstances. One obviously thinks of Greubel-Forsey tilted tourbillons.



However, before the Roger Dubuis Quatuor, one still utilized the beautiful but old fashioned tourbillons… Especially since tilting the tourbillon was only part of the answer to this issue …
Indeed, this solution is appropriate for the lambda office worker who spends hours typing with his wrist moving between 30° and 45°… But chances are that a fanciful collector leads a more eccentric life than the average watch-lover… His wrist moves in more diverse ways.



That’s when the Quatuor’s system comes into the picture. The watch does not feature a single classic tourbillon escapement, but four fixed escapements! They sit in each one of the four corners of the dial, tilted at an angle of 45° from the surface of the dial, all of them oriented in a different direction.
Straight lines starting from each of these devices would cross at the tip of an isosceles pyramid.
Hence, independent from the position of the wrist, there will always be hairspring-balances more or less parallel or perpendicular to the ground. Obviously, the Earth’s gravitational field will influence each of the escapement blocks differently.



That’s why a device familiar to car-lovers is utilized: the differential.  When positioned between two parallel wheels linked through a perpendicular gear, it regulates their respective rotations.
In watchmaking, the device is noticeably different. In this case, the signal delivered by the four escapements is coordinated by three differentials: two of them are sitting on the intermediate wheels and the third one is positioned on the hour gear train central wheel.



The general point of the system is that the signals will auto-regulate to obtain an average time indication from the four escapements set at 4Hz.
If it is an alternative to the tourbillon, it is also an alternative to high-frequencies, which allow for the sampling of shortest intervals of time, hence providing a more accurate signal. In the case of the Quatuor, the signal is also more precise than that of a single 4Hz escapement…



It is difficult to get more technical data from Roger Dubuis’ Communication department, since the implementation of the differentials is under pending patents; and the administrative process is still not complete…
A more classic feature is that a differential is also mounted on the winding axle and on the Power-reserve display system.

Of course, such a technical overabundance has a cost: Bulk. The movement is 163/4 lignes in diameter (about 37.7mm, a classic size, like a Unitas), by 10.6mm in thickness (less common).
If a movement of this diameter can be cased-in with a shoe horn into a 43mm watchcase, the latter must be 17mm of minimum thickness to accommodate the 10.6mm of the mechanism… Namely, the unharmonious proportions of a Rolex Deep-Sea.
Therefore, Roger Dubuis’ designers opted for a wider case (48mm, rose gold) in order to preserve the watch’s aesthetical balance. It is a success, as the piece does not look too thick; however, when worn on the wrist, it’s bulky; it is definitely a man’s watch!




Of course, the dial is an absolute delight for the open-watch lovers! While the skeleton shows the four regulating organs, the work of this horologic cathedral can be partially observed through the caseback. My only regret is the gold inlay on the chapter ring and at the center of the dial, which tends to upstage the balance wheels, when nothing should impair the sight of their ballet. Especially since the brass on the blackened bridges provides enough contrast.




No matter. This Excalibur Quatuor is available in another version. And one can speculate that this movement will be utilized in future Roger Dubuis collections…
Because it would be a shame to only produce 88 copies of this innovation. At any rate, it is the most innovative alternative designed to compensate the detrimental effects of gravity upon a wristwatch.

We’ve also had the chance to take pictures in avant-premiere of the new Excalibur Chronograph 42mm blue dial, a more reasonable and more classic watch which also features exceptional finishes. While for many observers the previous Excalibur collections were mere caricatures of Show-off watches, this new model, in contrast, is a paragon of aesthetical balance!



The watch case measures 42mm, the piece is powered by the caliber RD681 (4Mhz, 52h power-reserve), a version “with date” of the 680 which we had the opportunity to photograph in the Monegasques. This magnificent chronograph movement features a layered architecture which provides it with lots of personality and showcases “Geneva Hallmark” finishes.





The only (micro-) flaw: the micro-rotor is still silkscreened when one would have expected electroplated gold letters to perfect the demonstration.

We’ve already said that the caliber is quite fabulous, but the true novelty on this watch is of course its look.
First of all, the 42mm diameter is perfect for a sports-chic watch, not too large, not too small, and on top of it the piece remains thin (the caliber measures 6.3mm in thickness, to be compared to the 8mm of a 7750).
The blue dial preserves the charm of the Excalibur 42mm Lapis Lazuli. If it is less colored and demonstrative, it is more polyvalent and discreet. Its color varies between midnight blue and black, with royal blue reflections when the sun’s rays hit its surface.



The layout of the counters and their large size are perfect and enhance the dial’s color, while providing an old fashioned charm to the piece. The date aperture could probably have been added in a more appropriate way and its disk could have been blue, which would have allowed it to meld better in the background.




The watch is wearable for many occasions, with a pair of jeans or a three-piece dress suit. In short, Roger Dubuis’ works get better and better, as every new piece is more mesmerizing than the previous one.
If this piece’s beauty recipe is the same as that of La Monegasque, its style is indeed different, probably a bit sportier…
 
Objectively, this is a magical chronograph: a mesmerizing look, an exceptional Hallmark of Geneva caliber, and most of all, at a reasonable price (about 25.000CHF) thanks to a stainless steel case. A key alternative to many more mythical chronographs.






18
Novità Orologi / Re:New Steinhart Marine Officer Bronze Chronograph
« il: Febbraio 01, 2013, 17:57:14 pm »
Oh a bronzo Mare Nostrum. When Steinhart do Panerai better than Panerai.

19
Novità Orologi / Re:FP Journe Chronomètre Optimum
« il: Gennaio 08, 2013, 19:44:53 pm »
At last, the video:

http://youtu.be/FsjCOy8Qde8

21
Watchmaking is anachronism transformed into art.
It is the art of utilizing plenty of inventiveness, of technique, of savoir-faire; it is extracting the quintessence of the engineers and watchmakers' work to compose odes to uselessness.


 
When one writes that a watch is paradoxical, it is always flattering, as paradox is one of the pillars of uchronisme.
Yet, the Breguet 7047 is probably the most uchronic piece in watchmaking.



Stylistically, it is an anachronism, because it pays tribute (I insist on this word, which is not sullied in this context) to a style which disappeared with French watchmaking, the style of the Breguet subscription watches, a style which in certain ways was already very urban and super-modern based on the 19th century criteria, opposite to a certain Helvetian bucolism.



But it is also horologically uchronic; it is the overlapping of Middle Ages with Cyberpunk:
In 1490, Leonardo Da Vinci invents the concept of the Fusee-chain (at this time made with gut cord).
 -Around 1790, A.L Breguet invents the Tourbillon and patents it on June 26, 1801, namely Messidor 7th, Year IX of the French revolution calendar.
 -In 2000, the watchmaking industry starts to put silicon in the movements (Nivarox, Ulysse Nardin, and De Bethune).



During the Renaissance, springs are prehistoric, the periodic table has not even been thought of, the modern steel industry is in its infancy and alchemy is considered a science. The Fusee-chain allows for the regulation of the "home- made" springs broad variations, akin to the derailleur of a bike: the increasing fusee diameter (the "3D" wheel) compensates for the chain loss of tension, keeping it steady. But with the renewal brought by the Enlightenment, the metal industry improves dramatically and springs become far more reliable... In 1770, Jean-Antoine Lepine notices that they are of a quality good enough to get rid of the Fusee-chain; hence, he creates the modern layout caliber, with a plate and bridges.



During the turmoil of the French Revolution, Abraham-Louis Breguet patents the Tourbillon. There may be doubts regarding his motives: was he trying to find a better way to lubricate the mechanism? Did he want to improve chronometric performances by allowing the escapement to be mobile? This is the most commonly accepted hypothesis, as at this time, watches were carried vertically and gravity weighed on the escapement.
Like the Fusee-chain, the tourbillon became somewhat outdated. On the one hand because of the advent of the wristwatch, allowing for multiple positions, and on the other hand because of industrialization, which replaced the work of the best setters by assembly lines of standardized movements.




At the turn of the 2000's came the advent of silicon; neither metal nor plastic, this synthetic material is designed to push the envelope of the laws of physics, which had been limited at the start of watchmaking due to the lack of consistency and the weight of the alloys employed.
 A revolutionary technology to some, the death knell of traditional watchmaking to others, in any event, silicon is an endless source of polemics...


 
This Breguet Tradition 7047 is thus at the apex of the watchmaking paradox: indeed, it synthesizes medieval technology, the Fine watchmaking tradition and the mechanical horology post-modernism.
 But it is also an uncomplicated watch featuring a grand complication!
Except for the power reserve...Indeed, only the extra functionalities or displays are considered as complications by watchmaking orthodoxy. But the improvements of the power chain, regarding the escapement (in this case the tourbillon) as well as the barrel torque (thus the Fusee-chain) are not complications stricto sensu. Yet, the development of the caliber with its hundreds (????) of parts, its 43 jewels and its machining relying on state-of-the-art technologies (especially the hairspring) reach a level of complexity never seen until now. Therefore, this watch is "complex" but not "complicated".



The 7047 is super-demonstrative, the path of the chain is fascinating and the rotation of its One-minute tourbillon is mesmerizing. For that matter, the chain is far bigger than the competitors' and perfectly resonates with the large silicon balance (13mm) and the very large (17mm) titanium tourbillon carriage. The overall color in gray tones is in good taste, and perfectly matches the very clean and very rough sand-blasted finish. It is the opposite of a first communion watch. One can even go further by saying that it is different from the dominant style in the high-end market. When it takes a magnifier to appreciate the bevelings of a Dufour, here, one has to look at the watch from a distance, as the design is so brutal. While it is not "showy", it nonetheless impresses at first sight, it is impossible not to notice it.



The specificity of this version is that, akin to the Breguet Tradition 7057 without tourbillon, its bridges are red gold coated. In my opinion, it is the most suitable for this model, because the white gold version is too cold, the ruthenium version is too modern and the yellow gold version is too vintage. The red gold finish combines the vintage look of yellow gold and the dynamism of ruthenium. The warmth of red gold creates a contrast with the sharp bridges. The caseback is the most beautiful of the "Tradition" collection. And it is probably the most successful watch of the series: the 7027 was very nice, but a little too sober; the 7057 was funkier, but this 7047 is totally a beast! Here, Breguet did not try to do something cute. They tried to do something in the style of Abraham-Louis Breguet: everything is off centered, asymmetrical, the tourbillon uses as much room as the hour-dial, it is functionality before its time.



When he got rid of the Fusee-chain, Lepine wanted to make slim watches, and super-slim had been the pinnacle of good taste in watchmaking for a long time. This trend culminated in the 60's, before the quartz crisis.
Thanks to quartz, super-thin has become common, therefore less sexy. The years 2000 marked the consecration of 3D watchmaking. The watch became an art piece, and as such had to get out of a simple painting to become a sculpture.
This 7047 with the fusee-chain goes back to the roots of 3D, where torque regularity justifies thickness.
The watch is of course thicker. But the brand utilized quite a legitimate trick: the domed sapphire crystal allows for a moderate thickness as compared to the diameter.
Moreover, it allows us to admire the One-minute tourbillon from a lateral axis, which is difficult with a flat crystal. This configuration, which combines fine build, curved glass and thin bezel (like the pocket watches of XVIII) has another advantage by allowing more light into the movement. The domed glass makes the thickness of the mechanism acceptable, without having to rely on a XXL watchcase...
In fact, one should not mix the real thickness with the crystal, 16.6mm, and how it looks when worn on the wrist, about 13mm.



Beyond the radical design which totally matches watch-lovers' expectations (proposing a sand-blasted finish is daring!), there is the technical side.
With a classic barrel, the optimal torque is available in the first half of the power-reserve. But right after the watch has been fully winded, as well as in the second half of the power-reserve, the energy flow is less consistent. With this 7047, the torque is almost constant, whatever the level of the power reserve might be.



Therefore, the torque transmitted to the regulating organ is stable. The latter is set at 18,000v/h and the tourbillon completes a revolution in one minute, as watchmaking orthodoxy recommends.
 This constant energy supply is regulated by a silicon hairspring with a Breguet terminal curve. The initial function of this shape was to reduce the hairspring moment of inertia. But thanks to silicon lightness, this inertia has been drastically reduced. The Breguet terminal curve is less necessary than with a steel hairspring and a brass balance.
But isn't the full optimization of the existing mechanism the goal of this somewhat redundant device? Is it not totally legitimate to provide such a piece sold at this price, with spaceship technology?



The term "aerospace technology" is not inappropriate at all: because of the Breguet curve, the 3D hairspring is most probably very difficult to machine, as silicon can neither be twisted nor bent, or modified. The hairspring must get out of the DRIE in its final shape, with one end overlapping the rest.



The most surprising parts are the tourbillon screws. Indeed, the components are so fundamentally optimized, between the constant torque and the theoretically perfect silicon assembly balance/hairspring, that the gold fine-tuning screws of the titanium tourbillon look a bit superfluous... Maybe it is not possible to get same level of precision in machining with titanium... The last question aroused by such a particular escapement device, is that of legitimacy:  what would have been the comments if there was no Breguet curve. Let's go even further: wouldn't it have been heresy not to put a Breguet curve on the hairspring, even if made of silicon, on a watch from the firm created by the inventor of the Breguet hairspring and of the tourbillon?
 


The debate on silicon and the role of the tourbillon will not have a conclusion today, because this watch was designed as a product of synthesis from any point of view, between state-of-the-art technology from the 16th, the 19th and the 21st centuries.





22
Novità Orologi / Christie's auction of 12-11-12 @ Geneva Part 2:
« il: Dicembre 07, 2012, 19:35:23 pm »

If the first part of this topic about the Christie's auction was dedicated to the stars of the show, the second part is deals with atypical pieces, rarities and also one or two main pieces that I could not fit in the pre-auction post.

Since there are some fans in the audience, let's start with Rolex.

The peculiarity of this Rolex 6034 from 1950 lies with the dial, devoid of the "Amagnetic" label. Incidentally, this dial is a perfect illustration of a "tropical" livery as one could picture it... With its balanced "tropicalization", it does the job perfectly.
The other amazing feature relative to this watch is that the overall design looks more "vintage" than the Oysters from the 20's... The outlines are a bit heavy, a tinge less dynamic and refined than the future 6238, but nonetheless prefigure the design of the future Daytona chronographs. A little like a baby dog with its big paws would prefigure the future breed dog.
The Rolex Daytona collectors did not miss it and the watch reached far above its estimated price.

LOT 137:

Rolex 6034 Tropical Dial

Estimated price: 80,000-140,000CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 183,000 CHF






Now, a true atypical piece. Contrary to the 6034, this Rolex 6569 is in a pristine condition and its look is still current; indeed, when it was produced, in 1955, it must have been perceived as a watch from the future. The only cue that indicates its age is its small size, 34mm.
 Its singularity is that it features a special dial, which looks a lot like the "True-Beat" dial of the Rolex 6556 with dead beat second.
But here, the second hand is abnormally slipping, which makes it even more interesting to a Rolex collector.

LOT 20:

Rolex Oyster 6569 special « True-Beat » dial

Estimated price: 4,000 - 6,000 CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 21,250 CHF






 
Sometimes, auctions are boring:  Once again, a pristine "Paul Newman".  Another one.  It even looks like it is out of the box, as its dial is so gleaming; the only hints that this Daytona is actually old comes from the somewhat worn tritium numerals and the slightly erased first letters of "Cosmograph".
The particularity of this model is that everything is identical to the 6263, except for the pushers, which look like they were borrowed from the 6240.
Of course, because of its exceptional condition this Daytona Paul Newman was hammered-down above its estimated price.

LOT 19:

Rolex Daytona 6263

Estimated price: 60,000 - 90,000CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 135,000 CHF







"Chinese market My Love". It also works for the auctions.
The enameled vintage pocket watches are highly valued by Asian collectors, who have been enthusiastic regarding this kind of creations since the 18th century.
But until now, these works were a bit neglected in the auctions, despite their obvious technical and aesthetic appeal. Yet, they often represent the aesthetic and technical pinnacle of the watchmaking industry from the 18th century.
This Piguet & Meylan features a representation of Pierre-Paul Prud'hon's allegory "L’amour séduit l’innocence ", by the enameller Lissignol. You will notice the brightness of the pink drape. The movement features a cylinder escapement device and a quarter-repeater.
Like the lot 194, the William Ilbery, this Piguet & Meylan went through the roof at the auction, by reaching five times its estimated price, when the "big fishes" merely made it to their highest estimates. Asia is still doing well. 

LOT 41:

Piguet & Meylan N°10044 Enamel Quarter Repeater

Estimated price: 80,000-120,000CHF

Final Bid November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 459,000 CHF






 
Another peculiar piece, even more atypical that the previous ones.
The specialists of the AHCI (those who did not spend their time at Basel trying to get into the Rolex booth) may have had the chance to discover the creations of the Ukrainian Valeri Danevitch, who sculpts wooden watches.
This watch made of birch wood also comes from the East, but further East, from Russia. It is attributed to Bronnikov & Son; all the wheels and parts are made of wood and of bone. The only metallic part is the hairspring.
In this context, a silicon hairspring or even better, a glass one would make sense, as the watch would totally be non-magnetic.


Birchwood Pocket Watch attributed to Bronnikov & Son

Estimated price: 4,000-6,000CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 8,750 CHF






If the paradigm "history is constantly repeating itself" is debated, there is no doubt that the watchmaking industry constantly repeats itself.
The best example is this Patek Philippe from 1920, totally disconcerting and more in the spirit of the 2010's than any Patek in todays catalog!
 The watchcase shape and especially the font has obviously inspired the new watchmaking from the 90's, Franck Muller leading.
The watch is very impressive: with its 43mm case, it looks larger than a Panerai when it sits on the wrist!
If the look is disconcerting, the hammer-price was finally in the average of any very exotic Patek.

LOT 217:

Patek Philippe oversized rectangular case (43mm), from 1920

Estimated price: 100,000 - 150,000 CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 147,000 CHF





 
Contrary to our habits, we will talk about a pair of lots, as they look like they have been created to be sold together.
One could even wonder that, opposite to other pieces from the beginning of the auction, they have not been proposed as a single lot. These Breitling 777 prefigure the future models Transocean, until the recent reissue with the brand new caliber B01, in a 44mm case. Here, the size is more modest, only 37mm, but the presence of these watches when they sit on the wrist is proportionally opposite to their size.
The white dial model, lot 270, is powered by a Venus 175 with beveled bridges, while the black dial version features a Venus 176 with plain bridges; yet, the latter reached the highest price.

LOT 270:

Breitling «777» chronograph white dial Cal. Venus 175

Estimated price: 4,000 - 6,000 CHF

Final Bid November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva:  6,875 CHF


LOT 271:

Breitling «777» chronograph black dial Cal. Venus 176

Estimated price: 5,000 - 8,000 CHF

Final Bid November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva:  11,250 CHF






Finally, to close the topic, two watches which feature many common traits: Manual chronograph, enameled dial with red chrono indicator and gold case.

The Longines is powered by a mythical caliber 13.33z, in a 35mm case.

The Eberhard features a surprising 16 lignes caliber Huga, in a 40mm case more actual than the small Longines. The dial sports a magnificent telemetric scale.

LOT 123:

Longines Gold Chronograph Cal. 13.33z

Estimated price: 4,000-6,000CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 6,000 CHF


LOT 122:

Chrono Eberhard Telemeter Enamel Cal. Huga 16'''

Estimated price: 2,000-3,000CHF

Final Bid, November 12, 2012 @ Christie’s Geneva: 4,000 CHF









23
Novità Orologi / Re:FP Journe Chronomètre Optimum
« il: Novembre 29, 2012, 12:31:41 pm »
What a wonderful movement  :P thank you for sharing, as usual :D ;)

Thanks! To be honest, I'am not super happy about the pictures of this movement, it's so hard to take properly... I need to improve my photography technic.

24
Novità Orologi / FP Journe Chronomètre Optimum
« il: Novembre 28, 2012, 20:11:41 pm »


A few days ago, Geoffrey Ader knocked-down the George Daniels Space-Dweller at Sotheby's for the astronomical price of 1.6 million CHF. This pocket watch which displays the solar time as well as the sidereal time features a double escapement device, a specialty of George Daniels, directly inspired from the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet, especially the "natural" escapement. The late George Daniels was one of the most legitimate guardians of Abraham-Louis Breguet's legacy, but his natural escapement is the less known among the three devices developed at this time:

-The classic "lever escapement": 99% of the contemporary watches are fitted with this device. It offers the double advantage of being relatively accurate but also sturdy. Its drawback is that it demands abundant lubrication, as it is an indirect escapement device.

-the uncommon "detent escapement": It is mainly utilized in marine chronometers and in some vintage pocket chronometers. It is very difficult to set and very sensitive to shocks, as it only shifts every two movements of the balance. This type of escapement could potentially make a comeback, with the advent of high frequencies and of new shockproof systems.

-Finally, the double wheel "natural escapement": If it combines the qualities of both the detent escapement and the lever escapement (direct escapement + shifts phased with the oscillations of the balance), it also has the drawbacks of both, namely a relative fragility as well a premature wear due to its mechanical complexity, which generates more friction.

If the "natural" is very uncommon, it has not totally been forgotten. It is periodically utilized by talented watchmakers such as Ulysse Nardin, Karsten Fraesdorf, Laurent Ferrier, Kari Voutilainen and now by Francois Paul Journe, with the first natural escapement device working without lubrication as well as the only one to start by itself.

After many surprising pieces, FP Journe goes back to his roots with the "Chronometre Optimum", which is a continuation of Abraham Louis Breguet's work.




l
The name "optimum" implies very high standards. If a chronometer is all about quality, here "optimum" implies the absolute optimization of the energy chain, achieved through a mix of classic and innovative devices.

Among the classic solutions utilized, there is not only a Breguet hairspring (here called "Philips" which, except for a few details, is almost the same system), but also a double barrel.





Breguet used double barrels for two reasons: making the torque more consistent and limiting the wear generated by the automatic winding. For the same reasons, FP Journe was among the first watchmakers to systematically use this device in his creations. Today, this excellent system is becoming a standard in the watchmaking industry: From Panerai to Omega and Technotime, an increasing number of new manufacture calibers feature the double barrel.

The true technical added value of this chronometer comes from two uncommon solutions (described hereafter) whose pairing is new in this context.

The first device is patented and is the most spectacular: It is of course the double escapement wheel, better known as "natural escapement". The particularities of this mechanism are that the escapement wheels have similar sizes and that the pallet that sits between them has been modified to meet the modern operating criteria. The system has been optimized to work within a range of 260° to 280°, when 270° is conventionally the best figure.





The second device is even more visual, although Journe already utilized it: The "Remontoir d'egalite". It is designed to regulate the torque delivered to the mechanism. As you know, the power provided by one or multiple barrels is variable, independently from their quality or from their location.
The first 5% and the last 25% of the power reserve are not constant. The Remontoir d'egalite is a small wheel fitted with a spring that periodically stores energy and delivers a constant torque to the escapement device. Actually, it is a torque buffering system.
In this "Chronometre Optimum", the Remontoir d'egalite is patented and features multiple specificities that make it unique. The main feature is that its periodicity is extremely short, one second, which further reduces the torque discrepancies in the internal spring.
Furthermore, it is made of titanium to cut down its weight, thus reducing the mechanical energy wastes.


 
Finally, it has multiple aesthetic particularities:
On the one hand, the dial was designed with a wide aperture to showcase the path of the Remontoir d'egalite.                  I personally like this feature; it reminds me of the first Journe from the beginning of the 90's; but certain purists of "small dial apertures" won't appreciate.
On the other hand, another characteristic will trigger contrasted reactions:  A Dead-beat second wheel is attached to the Remontoir d'egalite, on the movement side. Again, to me this choice is relevant, because the spasmodic movement of a dead-beat seconds hand makes me hysterical. Furthermore, it rotates opposite to the main hands, which could be a visual disturbance if you wear the watch every day.
 However, some people could appreciate a certain form of dandyism conveyed by this dead-beat second hand.



A brilliant technical feat means nothing without the appropriate look and the main interest of this piece is its very fine design. I undoubtedly tried on the most beautiful and the most "Journe among the Journe" presented in recent years.
 The watch is impressive because of its perfect proportions (40 or 42mm depending on the model, for 10 millimeters in thickness). The model displayed on the wristshots is a 42mm. It will be a bit too large for the smallest wrists, but on mine it looks even thinner because of its width. Here I have to make a point: it is imperative to try on a FP Journe, as it is so difficult to capture all its aesthetic subtleties with a camera.
The large dial is a relevant choice, as it makes room for large sub-dials and thus preserves the legibility. It also emphasizes the diverse finishes, notably the relief painted numerals or the magnificent powdery dial.
 The watch is available in platinum or in red gold. I prefer the latter as it features a magnificent rose gold dial, which creates a very consistent look with the movement made of the same metal.
As you will probably have guessed, this piece is really appealing and I had trouble giving it back.
The price, 85k CHF, prevented me from leaving with it... At least for the moment.

Indeed, this "Chronometre Optimum" is a great work from Journe. In my opinion, it summarizes these basics: a chronometric watch, therefore a regressive work of absolute optimization of an outdated technology.







25
Novità Orologi / Re:Auction @ Christie's Geneva 12-11-12
« il: Novembre 19, 2012, 17:03:21 pm »
The results :

LOT 88:
Patek Philippe « JB Champion » 2448
Estimation :  2,000,000 - 4,000,000 CHF
Final Bid : 3,779,000 CHF

LOT 151 :
Patek 2499/100 Eric Clapton Platinium
Estimation :  2,500,000 - 4,000,000 CHF
Final bid : 3,443,000 CHF

LOT 188 :
Patek 1579 platinium
Estimation :  1,000,000 - 1,500,000 CHF
Final bid : 1,539,000 CHF

LOT 150 :
Patek 530 « Gobbi Milano »
Estimation :  600,000 - 1,200,000 CHF
Final bid : 987,000 CHF

LOT 113 :
Patek Pocket Split Second Repeater, case 174515
Estimation :  12,000 - 16,000 CHF
Final bid : 52,500 CHF

LOT 43 :
Patek Aquanaut 5065 rosegold
Estimation : 7,000 - 10,000 CHF
Final bid : 18,750 CHF

LOT 168 :
Rolex 6542 GMT Double Red
Estimation : 50,000 - 80,000 CHF
Final bid : 111,000 CHF

LOT 300 :
Panerai Pré-V 5218-203/A PVD
Estimation : 25,000 - 35,000 CHF
Final bid : 40,000 CHF

LOT 254 :
Paul Ditisheim Deck Chronometer
Estimation : 4,000 - 6,000 CHF
Final bid : 15,000 CHF

LOT 318 :
Omega Seamaster 2520 Enamel Neptune
Estimation : 60,000 - 100,000 CHF
Final bid : 243,000CHF

LOT 298 :
Panerai PAM358 Left-handed Subzilla Chronopassion
Estimation : 6,000 - 9,000 CHF
Final bid : 10,000CHF


LOT 260 :
IWC B-Uhr from 1940
Estimation : 20,000 - 30,000 CHF
Final bid : 25,000CHF


LOT 297 :
Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th
Estimation : Charity piece
Final bid : 12,500CHF

All results on the Christie’s website.


26
Novità Orologi / Auction @ Christie's Geneva 12-11-12
« il: Novembre 12, 2012, 01:22:47 am »
LOT 88:

Do you know the history behind the creation of Lamborghini?
Ferrucio Lamborghini was fired by Enzo Ferrari in 1958, because he wanted to make the Ferrari 250GT more efficient and reliable.
 
"Joe Ben" Champion was a famous lawyer from Texas and a collector known by the brand Patek. And like Ferrucio Lamborghini, he demanded from Patek more-than-a-chronometric watch.
First of all, the movement's global aspect is surprising: 13 lignes is large for a simple movement from this period. Then, it is covered in the Saxon way (contrary to the Helvetian habits) by a ¾ plate, to increase stability. Finally, it exhibits a magnificent chronometric "Guillaume" balance: Large size, blued hairspring.
This movement is part of a series of 30, amongst which only two were encased...
The movement has been tuned by the Master watchmaker Andre Zibach and was certified by the Geneva Observatory... The watchcase is also a bit peculiar, because it is theoretically a 2448. However, this "JB Champion" platinum case was made slightly larger: 36mm, in order to fit the 13 lignes caliber.  But the aesthetics also transfigure Patek's codes by proposing something rougher, less dressy, and more technical than the Patek from this period. It is exactly like a GT car that would feature a "racing" body. For that matter, don't be surprised to see the watch with two different dials and wristbands, since Patek delivered it to Mr. Champion with the "full package".
Estimated price: 2 to 4 million CHF. Let's bet it will be auctioned for a far higher sum.







LOT 151:
 
The other exceptional Patek in this auction (even if looks desperately plain compared to the incredible 2458 "JB Champion") is the platinum 2499 called "Eric Clapton" after the name of its previous owner, the famous guitarist. 
Beyond its owner's aura, it is the last of the Patek Philippe Perpetual calendar to have been sold. The last two were made of platinum; one was sold to the Patek museum and the other one sold on the open market. From owner to owner, the latter finally became Clapton's property.
It is probably the last opportunity for many years to buy the only platinum 2499 available on the market.
Estimated price: 2.5 to 4 million CHF







LOT 188:

To continue with exceptional Patek watches, which are characteristic of Christie's auctions led by Aurel Bacs, the platinum chronograph Patek Philippe 1579. Akin to the two previous marvels, it features a platinum case. It is the last in the series and is fitted with a 13 lignes caliber. It is one of the three existing copies which close the 1979 series.
The dial is a beauty of brightness and balance and its slight coloration does not spoil its look; quite the contrary.
Despite its small size, it is very present on the wrist, notably because of its dial's austere charisma.
Estimated price: 1 to 1.5 million CHF







LOT 150:

This Patek 530 chronograph is more common than the three previous marvels. However, beyond its fabulous aesthetic totally out of Patek's classic standards, its particularity is that it is brand new.
Of course, it has been sold in 1956, but it is pristine, not at 99% but at 99.99%; one was almost afraid to take pictures of it for fear of downgrading it to 99.98%. This 36mm rose gold chronograph is powered by a magnificent 13 lignes caliber.
When wearing this watch, you will feel like you just got out of its original retailer's store, Gobbi from Milano, and to be immersed in the heat of the Italian Dolce Vita from the 50's.
Estimated price: 600k to 1.2 million CHF.







LOT 113:

It is maybe the finest movement in this auction. This Patek Philippe 47mm rose gold pocket watch is fitted with a 17 lignes caliber, with serial number #174 515, manufactured in 1915.
The reason why this movement is so beautiful is that it features a fly-back hand as well as a minute repeater, the overall having been manufactured with virtuosity. It somewhat reminds us of the caliber 97443 purchased by the Patek museum more than a year ago, for 200kCHf.
Estimated price: 13k to 16kCHF.







LOT 43:
 
A more recent Patek, but also relatively surprising: The previous rose gold Aquanaut, #5065, from 1999. This rose gold livery totally changes the Aquanaut's look, its 38mm size makes it unisex and its estimated price makes it affordable by a wide audience. You will notice that the "chocolate bar" dial carries a different meaning in this particular context.
Estimated price: 7 to 10kCHF.








LOT 168:
 
An auction would not be ideal without some rare and exotic Rolex. The exoticism is brought by two lines of red text (here rose and red); the rarity is to find both of them in a GMT Master watchcase.
This 1955 Rolex is one of the first 6542 to have been presented.
With its worn bi-color Bakelite bezel and bi-color date, it is a must for vintage Rolex lovers. A watch to wear driving a Ferrari 312 GTO while wearing a Hawaiian shirt.
Estimated price: 50k to 80kCHF.








LOT 300:

Finally, a Panerai.  It is a magnificent pre-Vendome from 1994, in incredibly good condition. The "as cast" Unitas is fitted in a 44mm PVD coated "Bettarini" watchcase; regardless of the slightly caved-in tritium coating of the indexes, everything is in perfect condition, the wristband as well as the original box.
Estimated price: 25k to 35kCHF.









LOT 254:

A Paul Ditisheim deck watch manufactured around 1915, an austere chronometer with exceptional characteristics: "Guillaume" balance, blued hairspring and ¾ plate. The quality of the finishes is, as stated by Aurel Bacs, "worthy of the work of Voutilainen or Dufour".
Certainly, this Paul Ditisheim is far less demonstrative because it is authentically tailored for chronometry (Ditisheim regularly attended chronometry contests with pieces like this).
Estimated price: 4K to 5kCHF







LOT 318 :

The last lot on the Christie's catalog is an Omega featuring an enameled dial which represents Neptune on his chariot. This chronometer from 1954 is fitted with an automatic caliber 354 with peripheral rotor.
This enameled Omega is different from the production of Patek from the same period with their classic style, as its design was more contemporary to the 50's. The watch looks sportier and its general condition is exceptional.
Estimated price: 60k to 100kCHF.







LOT 298 :

Panerai PAM358. This 47mm titanium/stainless steel "Subzilla" manufactured by Panerai and dedicated to Chronopassion had caused a memorable line in front of Laurent Piciotto's boutique. The particularity of this watch is that it is the only lefty submersible 47mm (together with the other 44mm SL Chronopassion: The PAM239).
Chances are that the flame of passion surrounding this watch might not be extinguished and that it might well double or triple the estimated price: between 6k and 9kCHF.







LOT 260 :

IWC B-Uhr from 1940. This 55mm watch was an endowment in the Luftwaffe. The big difference between these watches of the pilots from the Axe and the diver-watches (type Panerai 3646) are the calibers. This IWC is powered by a 19 lignes chronometric caliber 52T, with sand-blasted finishes to die for.
Estimated price: 20k to 30kCHF.







LOT 297 :

Omega James Bond 50th anniversary. This is a special piece sold on behalf of a Turkish charity association, which helps impoverished Turk people, especially in rural areas, or the victims of natural disasters. This association was created in 1928 by Ataturk, who wanted to open up Turkey.
This watch comes just at the right time for the worldwide success of Skyfall, the last opus of the James Bond series.
Estimated price: Solidarity being priceless, no estimate has been made.







27
Novità Orologi / Bulgari New Octo
« il: Ottobre 09, 2012, 19:12:55 pm »
The watchmaking web did not remain indifferent when Bvlgari integrate the manufactures Genta & Roth; some observers were skeptical about models like the Octo finding a place and legitimacy in Bvlgari's horologic department.
But one has to admit that the Octo not only remains in the catalog, but more importantly that its design has been revamped and even exalted.

The challenge Bvlgari undertook with the new Octo, was to streamline a range whose multiple variants did not allow for its essence to be extracted.


 
What was drawing our attention in the previous design was that contrary to the Nautilus or to the Royal Oak, the dial was rather complex and sometimes overly ornate in the most colored versions.
And that finally the overabundance of details hid the essence of this watch, namely the contrast between its geometric shapes: circles, squares and octagons. Cleaning the dial of its retrograde sub-dials and getting rid of the bezel's useless screws gave birth to a high-end streamlined piece. The strenght of the brushed bezel is surprising for a dressy watch. This power lies in the octagonal ring sitting between the case and the bezel; its mirror finish is quite discreet and it takes a few minutes to understand from where the impact it conveys comes, when one slips the watch on one's wrist.



On youtube, the making of:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXgUopQsiWs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihOCrNn-fKI&feature=youtu.be

In fact, I experienced the same sensation as when I wore a Panerai for the first time, many years ago: a mix of brutality and of refinement quite unique and typically Transalpine. Undoubtedly this Bulgari Octo has been "Italianized". But one has to understand that, contrary to a Luminor Betarini, the Octo is more refined than brutal. But whereas in many cultures (notably in France) one very often starts from a rough piece that undergoes multiple transformations before it is refined, in Italy one starts from a rough piece and directly refines it. These products have the particularity of keeping the nature's bestiality with a luxury finish which only the best craftsmen can achieve. Therefore, it is an intense piece which is not a classic dressy watch, but a sports-chic watch. From this point of view, the partnership with Maserati is quite coherent. But contrary to a Maserati car, it is a relatively discreet watch in daily life, without polished metal and no showy colors or finishes, a piece whose elegance is intended for connoisseurs; for that matter, your relatives (non watch-lovers) will more readily recognize the "Bvlgari" written on the dial, than they will be able to discern the wonderful contrast between the bezel, the polished ring and the watchcase. Therefore, it is a product which will offer several levels of interpretation, depending on its public. It will also bring advantages to the new watch-lover who acquires an Octo Bvlgari: with his increasing level of watchmaking knowledge, he will progressively discover the multiple aspects of his watch.



The dial is undoubtedly the most paradoxical part of this piece. In spite of a medium diameter (41.5mm) and a relatively thick bezel, its aperture looks extremely wide; this effect is probably due to the lacquered finish, providing a very pure and shiny black which stands in sharp contrast with the almost white steel of the case. But if visually it is a success, I hope that the dial's wide surface will be utilized in future versions as a showcase for materials or textures, for example Lapis-Lazuli or finishes such as a Vasarely-style geometric engine-turning...





The hands amplify the watch's sporty look. By choosing hands with a classic design but sporty dimensions, Bvlgari opted for a consensus which pays off. They are not luminescent and while it obviously improves the look, it is inevitably a hindrance at night...
Yet, the watch remains quite legible in the dark, as the large polished hands catch the faintest glint of light.
Bvlgari kept the date functionality, a practical choice. In real life, its aperture is matte enough to remain unnoticeable between the shiny dial and the brushed bezel.


 
On the wrist, the watch looks far more sizable than one could assume with its 41.5mm; this effect comes from the dial's aperture and from the seemingly square case, which is actually octagonal. The watch is even more imposing as the alligator wristband is very well made and provides a bit of  "power wrist strap" look to the whole.
Personally, I prefer the stainless steel case, which contrasts better with the black dial.
This color does not captivate me as much on the gold version; I would prefer a dark chocolate dial with matching leather. But as mentioned earlier, the range just started, and fashionable versions are probably being prepared.



Finally, the last noticeable feature and the most important relative to the continuous level of quality is the caliber. Certainly this Octo is not yet fitted with an “In-House” manufactory movement. It is fitted with the BLV193, based on the Vaucher VMF3000, personalized by Bulgari. The specifications of this 11.5 lignes movement are quite common: 28.800v/h, with less or more a 50-hour power reserve delivered by two barrels for optimal torque. It is only 3.7mm thick, which allows for a thin watch.
But its real interest also lies elsewhere: one has to be conscious that Vaucher's quality level begins where ETA's stops and that even the basic productions reach quality levels bordering on Fine Watchmaking.
And where it becomes exciting, is when one can afford a movement with a level of finishes almost as high as Fine watchmaking, in a piece whose price is much lower.



With this nice caliber and at last a streamlined design, this Bulgari Octo is better than a successful hybrid. More than ever, it is part of the prestigious lineage of offbeat sports-chic watches from the 70's, created by a certain Mr. G.





28
I love the work of this house!  :P

29
Novità Orologi / Tag Heuer MikrotourbillonS
« il: Settembre 26, 2012, 13:13:32 pm »
I don't know how it feels for you, but for me, commuting to the office is a 65km long frustration. Every morning, on the A1 between Genève and Lausanne, I drive past eight radar detectors. Every Wagnerian ride is interrupted by the Helvetian traffic control cameras.

This is the paradox of the current road system and even of the system overall. We are able to reach speeds higher than ever, but this capacity is completely void because of the law enforcement. Cars are more powerful than tanks; they carry more electronics than an IBM supercomputer and rely on more security systems than an airliner. In short, we have never been as fast, as strong and as safe. Unfortunately, the roadsides are filled with repressive devices....

The morale is that one can't enjoy speeding on the road anymore! Speed, this shameful practice, hated, banned from our roads, when it contributed so much to our development; Well, at TAG Heuer's, one is still fond of it. Certainly, at TAG Heuer's, one fancies its horologic version, but in its purest form: Always faster, always stronger.



TAG has been leading the "chase for high frequencies" for some time. Originally, the goal of this series of developments was to produce a COSC certified chronograph. Yet, to avoid perturbations, it takes two regulating organs: a classic balance set at 28,800v/h and a very high frequency regulating organ for the chronometer. You will notice that I intentionally avoid the term "balance" for the chronograph's very high frequency regulating organ; why?
Because Guy Sémon, the head of TAG's development department, soon had to deal with the balance's physical limitations, during the construction of the Mikrotimer at 1/1000th of a second. If the Mikrograph, accurate up to 1/100th of a second, works very well with relatively classic balance and a hairspring, the Mikrotimer at 1/1000th does not use a balance anymore and its very specific hairspring is mounted directly on the shank... It was very difficult task; with only 11 copies produced, it is already a collector's piece.



The development team had to re-invent the wheel (flat!) to exceed the hairspring's physical limitations. They are currently produced by actuator-powered rolling mills, but even this cutting-edge technology is reaching its limits.
The possible deviation in the hairsprings' width is 0.1 micrometer, which leads to an average variation of about 0.99 second per day, at best (so, "mass market" calibers are generally quite accurate). As a consequence, one quickly reaches the classic hairspring chronometric limitations. As the time intervals get shorter, the frequency increases proportionally and the window during which the timing remains accurate diminishes accordingly. At 1/1000th of a second, the timing is accurate only within a one minute window, when the timing of 1/10th of a second gap remains accurate for 100 minutes. It means that the "chronographing" windows make no sense beyond two hours, with a 4Hz frequency, without taking into account the power losses and the other interferences.



Thus, to produce a chronograph watch complying with the COSC criteria, even when the chronograph is engaged, it takes two independent power chains (or, if one wants to be more purist-than-a-purist, it takes a single power chain with a torque regulating system). And if one wishes to produce a chronograph more accurate than 1/1000th of a second, one has to come up with a specific design. It has been done with the Mikrogirder, whose oscillating "beams" system (inspired by Huygens, like the hairspring)) allows measurements accurate beyond 1/1000th of a second. When the frequency is too high for a hairspring to work properly, the linear regulating organ resonates and generates a precise rhythm.



Between the three high frequency chronographs, Mikrograph, Mikrotimer and Mikrogirder, I have to say that I prefer the slowest, the Mikrograph at 1/100th of a second (remember, we had the opportunity to take pictures of the piece presented at only watch)
Like the low frequency flying seconds (14,400 or 18,000v/h), the balletic movement of a very fast hand is never more beautiful than when it can still be caught by a human eye.
If the movement of the Microtimer is barely observable, the Mikrogirder's is totally invisible:  the only indication that the chronograph is working is a loud humming.



Now the MikrotourbillonS comes timely. It is the newborn of the series. As its name suggests, it involves tourbillons.
It is an interesting turning point in the series: until now, the motto was "always faster, always stronger".
Notwithstanding the important innovations regarding the regulating organ, it was purely "quantitative", because it only pushed further the envelope of the measurable interval by a mechanical chronograph. Today, the innovation is more quality oriented, as it combines the most old fashioned watchmaking (and the most necessary), namely the tourbillon, with the high frequency escapement devices from TAG Heuer.

The watch features a classic 1 minute tourbillon associated with an also classic escapement 4Hz device, with a 45-hour power reserve; thanks to the quality of its construction, it is COSC certified.     



On the contrary, the chronograph escapement is exceptional in all respects. It is one of the few tourbillons with a split-second, an essential feature because of the short power reserve (60-minute) consistent with its 50Hz frequency.
The tourbillon not only features a stopping system, but it revolves 12 times per minute, astounding! This entire escapement device drives the large second hand at 1/100th, which completes one rotation per second.
Finally, it is COSC certified, which is not unique for a tourbillon, but extremely rare, like the presence of the stopping device. When it is still, the MikrotourbillonS is almost placid, with the balletic movement of the 1 minute tourbillon; but when the chronograph is set off, it is explosive! The tourbillon's escapement turns crazy, the large second hand flies like a missile; it is an absolutely mesmerizing sight.



After a few years of horologic blogging, one is almost bored, one believes to have seen it all, and one assumes that watchmaking has nothing left that could still shake us. But here, it is objectively the biggest slap I received from a chronograph, since the presentation of the Jaeger LeCoultre "platinum Duomètre". It actually is a far stronger slap: I had seen very impressive tourbillons, like "Histoire de Tourbillon 3", presented a few months ago, as well as super-fast chronometers, like the TAG Mikros series. But such a combo exceeds my craziest dreams, as it is so amazing! As shown in this video:   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4VxTL-8USc&feature=youtu.be

Aesthetically, the watch features TAG Heuer's typical codes, the rose gold and tantalum 45mm case is very nicely executed, and the contrast between the metals is consistent with the association between the classic tourbillon and the high frequency. But the lugs are a bit too long, which is surprising, as the watch is already of a decent size.
Regarding the dial, it is the same contrast: the recessed beveling that leads to the two tourbillons is quite original and allows distinguishing in an elegant manner between the côtes de Genève and the super-modern tourbillon's bridges.
The bezel (graduated from 1 to 100) would have benefited from being as well integrated as the sub-dials...



On the wrist, the watch is relatively discreet considering the mechanical complexity of the supersonic machine; without being a super-flat from a classic brand, it is not as show-off as the creations of certain independents.
So much the better, it is a very Great complication that one can wear casually, as would a young enthusiast having just purchased his first fine watch, very often a TAG...

30
Novità Orologi / Re:Silicium: material evolution, or artisanal revolution?
« il: Settembre 26, 2012, 12:35:00 pm »
it is also interesting to see the solution Journe is going to provide
he is supposed to have created a natural escapement calling back breguet's one...

will see...

The rate of breakdown?  ;D

Pagine: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7