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Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue

Airangel

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Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« il: Aprile 24, 2015, 18:17:28 pm »
Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue

At first he was attracted by the deep black color of the dial. By slightly tilting the watch the light was reflected in the complex decorations; giving the dark color shades of midnight blue.

The very classic esthetics of the dial were in fact hiding an astonishing complication. By pressing the pusher on the crown, the two concealed dial panels positioned at 12 and 6 hours were lowered at first and then they smoothly slide under the dial thus revealing two new time indications. At 6 hours he could now see a cylinder indicating a second time and at 12 hours on another cylinder, the smiling face of the sun.

By pressing again on the pusher of the crown the two dial panels repositioned themselves perfectly and flush on the dial so the secret was again well hidden. It was the first time he saw such a mechanism and he played delightfully opening and closing several times the dial panels.
The Chapter Three met exactly his taste as he loved classical and innovative high end horology. At the same time this watch was an ideal partner to accompany him on his long trips where, lost between the cities and the time differences, he needed to know his home time.

Maîtres du Temps Atelier d'Horlogerie - is very proud of the Chapter Three because for the first time, a watch model is manufactured entirely in our workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds using developments that are both highly technical and innovative. As with every Chapter a specific movement was designed for this timepiece.

For this new execution of the Chapter Three, special attention was given to the color of the dial. The deep black color emphasizes the classical esthetic of the watch and the beauty of the guilloche finish. This new dial complements the choice of the existing silver and anthracite versions.

Collection Chapter Three: reveal the time
The ingenious mechanism of the opening of the dial becomes the DNA of the Chapter Three. A pusher on the center of the crown allows to lower two concealed dial panels of the dial in order to reveal two additional and hidden time indications: a second time zone indication (also known as GMT) and a Day/Night indicator, both displayed on cylinders, the signature feature of Maîtres du Temps Atelier d'Horlogerie. The elegant sophistication has never reached such a level before.

The Movement: a technical prowess
Starting from scratch in designing the movement has allowed integrating the cylinders within the caliber rather than just adding a module needing much more space. The high precision conical gears improve the distribution of power and the reliability of the different mechanisms. The tailor made architecture of the movement also includes the opening and closing mechanism of the revealing dial panels. Incorporating this mechanism into the movement rather than the case allows for the complete optimization of reliability without increasing its. But a rich display associated with a distinguished elegance is not sufficient: an outstanding watch must also be a precise timepiece. For this purpose the movement is regulated by a Straumann escapement which is equipped with a low mass and energy efficient escape lever and a balance spring with Breguet overcoil improving the isochronism.

The Dial: beauty of the guilloché
The Chapter Three is a timepiece displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date and moon phase all set on a sumptuous guilloché dial in an elegant round 18kt gold case.

When the concealed panels are positioned flush on the dial, the hour and minute hands are completed by a small second counter at 8 hours harmoniously counterpoised by a date counter at 2 hours and at 4 hours by a moon phase indicator representing the shadow of the Earth passing over a photo realistic moon. The small counters of the second and date indicators are subtly enhanced by a guilloche "Clous de Paris" and are identified by small and neat name plates.

The opening and closing mechanism is a complication in itself. When the dial is closed a light pressure on the pusher in the crown lowers the panels below the level of the dial, and then releasing the pusher the same disappears below the dial unveiling the cylinders of the second time zone and the Day/Night indicator. A new pressure of the pusher creates an inverted rotation of the panels and resets them in the initial position before making them rise flush with the dial when releasing the pusher.

The high precision cylinders are the esthetical and technical signature of all timepieces of Maîtres du Temps Atelier d'Horlogerie. They have to be very resistant and extremely light in weight so as to optimise the functioning of the movement.

In order to maximize the readability the second time indicator positioned in the lower part of the dial is displayed on two separate cylinders: the hours 1 to 6 on one and 7 to 12 on the other one. In the transition of the cylinders (forward and backward) between 6 and 7 and 12 and 1, the cylinder which is not used moves horizontally out of view giving space to the other cylinder.

This innovative and unique mechanism is patented. Using two cylinders instead of just one means that only 6 figures have to be engraved on the circumference of the cylinder and this offers the possibility for the figures to be twice as large and therefore twice as easy to read.

The cylinder for the Day/Night indication, which is positioned on the upper part of the dial, requires a 30 days manufacturing cycle. This very demanding manufacturing process goes through high precision machining, lining of hybrid ceramic, polishing, colouring of the sunrays and the stars through a galvanic process and finally hand painting of the faces of the Sun and the Moon.

Technical Specifications:
The case, in 18kt rose or white gold, measures 42mm. It has double AR-coated sapphire crystals and it is water resistant to 30 meters. Shaped pusher: desynchronizes cylinders from time indication when setting second timezone.

Movement is the Swiss manual-wind Maîtres du Temps in-house caliber SHC03 with 39 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 36 hours. Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever. Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing with beveled, and polished screw heads. Functions are: central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 8 o'clock, date on sub-dial at 2 o'clock, moonphase at 4 o'clock, concealed Day/Night on cylinder at 12 o'clock, concealed second time zone on cylinder at 6 o'clock.

The deep black dial with sunray and Clous de Paris guilloché has Roman numerals and gold hands. Day and Month High Precision Cylinders: concealed timezone: dual sliding embossed, aluminum Anticorodal cylinders, concealed Day/Night: engraved and hand painted.

It comes on a black hand-sewn alligator leather strap with matching 18kt gold tang buckle.












ciaca

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Re:Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« Risposta #1 il: Aprile 24, 2015, 20:12:54 pm »
La mano di Voutilainen è inconfondibile.
Per il resto è enorme.
Resto dell'idea che nel volume di un compressore è troppo "facile" stupire con effetti speciali, ma se vogliono farli alla moda che mi diano una bella cassa moderna e casual, perchè un orologio di questa tipologia in 42mm di lucido metallo nobile ha davvero pochissimo senso.
« Ultima modifica: Aprile 24, 2015, 20:14:47 pm da ciaca »
"A megghiu parola è chidda ca un si dici"

Re:Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« Risposta #2 il: Aprile 24, 2015, 20:53:13 pm »
In effetti è grande, comunque i dettagli sono molto belli, la cura profusa in tutto l'orologio sembra immensa, l'asimmetria dei due compax però non la trovo esaltante.
Non c'è nulla di nobile nell'essere superiore a qualcun'altro.
La vera nobiltà è essere superiore a chi eravamo ieri.
-Samuel Johnson-

Re:Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« Risposta #3 il: Aprile 24, 2015, 22:52:09 pm »
Avrà mille difetti, ma lo trovo proprio bello ;)

Re:Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« Risposta #4 il: Aprile 26, 2015, 04:08:06 am »
Capolavoro che il buon Carletto Manometro mi ha fatto provare al polso ed esaminare nel dettaglio, ha del miracoloso con i 4 rulli che camminano in orizzontale e le finestre che salgono e scendono per poi sparire...non riesco a spiegarmi ma c'è del genio e quella firmetta...Voutilainen lo ha ben rifinito...
« Ultima modifica: Aprile 26, 2015, 04:15:11 am da Wei Koh »

mbelt

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Re:Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three Midnight Blue
« Risposta #5 il: Aprile 26, 2015, 17:03:52 pm »
Capolavoro che il buon Carletto Manometro mi ha fatto provare al polso ed esaminare nel dettaglio, ha del miracoloso con i 4 rulli che camminano in orizzontale e le finestre che salgono e scendono per poi sparire...non riesco a spiegarmi ma c'è del genio e quella firmetta...Voutilainen lo ha ben rifinito...
Non c'è mistero questo orologio è opera di Andreas Strehler quello che ha progettato il Perpetual 1 di Moser, ed infatti si vede, il gusto è quello, ad un livello altissimo di manifattura e prezzo.
Contro ogni talebanismo, ora e sempre