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Maitres du Temps – Chapter Three

fabri5.5

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Maitres du Temps – Chapter Three
« il: Marzo 09, 2012, 16:44:13 pm »




Chapter Three Reveal – Date, Moon Phase, plus Hidden Additional Time Zone and Day/Night Indicators

Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen
Widely renowned for his superlative fine finishing, Kari Voutilainen took his first steps to becoming one of the most innovative and influential independents of our time in the early 1980s, when he qualified as a watchmaker at the respected Tapiola watchmaking school in his native Finland.

Work as a repairer and restorer of antique timepieces followed before he came to Switzerland in 1989 to complete the WOSTEP Complication course. His talent was quickly recognized by Michel Parmigiani, and Voutilainen spent nearly 10 years restoring some of the world’s rarest timepieces and creating bespoke pieces for Parmigiani.

Voutilainen then headed WOSTEP’s department of complicated watchmaking before setting up as an independent in 2002, when he created, among others, a collection of decimal repeaters and Observatoire timepieces, for which he was awarded the 2007 Grand Prix de Gèneve award for Best Men's Watch and his new Vingt-8, featuring his completely in-house movement.

The complex proprietary movement for Maîtres du Temps’ Chapter Three Reveal is the first caliber Voutilainen has developed for another brand. Karin Voutilainen developed the complete movement architecture, including the gear train and complications, designed the bridges and plates, specified the decoration, and is responsible for the high-grade finishing of the movement.

Master Watchmaker Andreas Strehler
Ingenious constructor Andreas Strehler is widely respected for his work as an independent master watchmaker—his own watches include the Papillon and the Opus 7 (for Harry Winston)—and as a consultant and watchmaker for prestigious brands.

After completing a watchmaker apprenticeship in Frauenfeld, Switzerland, and attending the Watchmaking School of Solothurn, Strehler worked for Renaud & Papi as chief prototypist for four years.

In 1995, he became an independent and worked on restoring antique timepieces before presenting his first creation at Baselworld in 1998: a perpetual desk calendar. In 2001, Strehler made history as the youngest watchmaker accepted as a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), while in 2006; Strehler’s Moser Perpetual 1 won the complicated watch prize at the Grand Prix de Genève.

Strehler has developed, inter alia, a brilliant switching mechanism that enables indicators to signal different functions, according to his philosophy of using complexity to provide simplicity (for the user). Not only does Strehler develop the movements for his innovative mechanisms, but he also creates many of the machines and software required for their manufacture. He has so far created as many as 30 movements and complication modules, 11 of which have been awarded patents.

For the Chapter Three Reveal, Strehler developed the technical interface between movement, complication and case, in addition to devising innovative production methods and technical solutions.

Chapter Three Reveal – Technical Specifications

Central hours and minutes, small seconds, date, moon phase, hidden time zone on roller, hidden day/night on roller, manual winding mechanical movement

Displays
Central hour and minute hands
Small-seconds at 8 o’clock
Date on sub-dial at 2 o’clock
Moon phase at 4 o’clock
Hidden day/night on roller at 12 o’clock
Hidden time zone on roller at 6 o’clock

Functions
Time: hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, hidden time zone and hidden day/night indication

Caliber SHC03
Manual winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 35.6 mm x 8.2 mm (inclusive of dial mechanism)
Number of components: 319
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: 36 hours
Dual mainspring barrels in series
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever
Finishing: Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, and polished screw heads


Case
18K gold
Number of components: 49
Dimension: 42mm
Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating
Shaped pusher: quickset hidden time zone
Crown: 3 positions plus pusher
Position 0: Winding
Position 1: Setting date and moon phase
Position 2: Setting time
Pusher: Open/close dial panels
Water resistance: 30 meters/ 100 feet/ 3 ATM

Dial and Hands
Number of components: 3
Roman numerals
Sun-ray guilloche, Clous de Paris guilloche
Hands: 18K gold

Rollers
Hidden time zone: dual sliding embossed rollers
Hidden day/night: engraved and hand painted

Strap and buckle
Hand-sewn alligator strap with 18K gold tang buckle

Patrizio

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Re:Maitres du Temps – Chapter Three
« Risposta #1 il: Marzo 09, 2012, 16:51:10 pm »
mucho bello...
il maestro non delude...
- Homo sapiens non urinat in ventum -